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Encyclopedia

ENCYCLOPEDIA FOR FFR ASSEMBLY


By John Minton    15 Feb 2003

TABLE OF CONTENTS  

·                  ALIGNMENT

·                  ALUMINUM PANELS

·                  BATTERY

·                  BODY FIT OUT

·                  BODY PREPARATION AND PAINTING

·                  BODY STRIPE

·                  BRAKES

·                  BUILD SEQUENCE AND TIPS

·                  COOLING

·                  DRIVE TRAIN

·                  ELECTRICAL

·                  EMERGENCY BRAKE

·                  ENGINE

·                  EXHAUST

·                  FINISHES

·                  FRAME MODIFICATIONS

·                  FUEL SYSTEM

·                  GENERAL INFORMATION

·                  GAUGES

·                  HEATER

·                  OPTIONS LIST

·                  MAINTENANCE

·                  PEDALS

·                  REAR END

·                  ROLL BAR

·                  SEATS

·                  SUPPLIES

·                  STEERING

·                  SUSPENSION

·                  TOOLS

·                  WHEELS AND TIRES

·                  WIPERS

 

ALIGNMENT

 

TOE IN ADJUSTMENT

The adjusters, no matter whose kit, are not incorrectly machined. They are incorrectly named! They (we) call them couplers. The coupler is assembled to the rod end and held with the jam nut. On our coupler, there is a hex section for the purpose of tightening the jam nut. When assembled, the unit is the same as a standard outer tie rod end, with right hand female threads.
The OEM Mustang rack has a hex section or flats on the inner tie rod end. (the FR rack omits this feature) The normal way to set toe is to loosen the inner tie rod end boot clamp, rotate the inner tie rod end to set the toe, fix the setting with the jam nut against the outer tie rod end (or coupler) and then replace the boot clamp. In the case of the Flaming river, just replace the crimped metal clamp with a zip tie.

While I'm at it, if you want a bump kit that does not require drilling the spindles, Breeze offers an exclusive kit (70049 Rod End Tie Rod End Kit, $149, now with nickel plated studs and couplers) (Mark Reynolds)

Front Suspension

Do It Yourself Alignment Article, http://www.ffcobra.com/FAQ/irs.html

Front End Alignment Specs:

(GL) "Align it to 1 degree neg camber, 4 degrees pos caster, 0 toe. I am assuming you are using 17" tires. Tire pressures should be 23psi front and 27psi rear on a good gauge." - Solid axle car.

[FFR]:

Street Car:

3 degree caster : -1/2 degree camber : 1/16th degree total toe in.

Coupe and IRS Street Cars:

Front: Caster 3 : Camber -1 : Toe 1/16" Total

Rear: Camber -1 : Toe 1/16" Total

 

Camber Simplified

Camber is the tilt of the tire as viewed from the front of the car. If the top of the tires lean toward the center of the car then you have negative camber. If the top of the tire tilts out away from the center of the car then you have positive camber.

Adjusting camber can have a dramatic effect on the cornering of your car. Most oval track racers run negative camber on the right side of the car and positive camber on the left. Optimum camber settings will result in more speed and ideal tire wear.

Camber is measured with a caster camber gauge and is usually easily adjusted with shims or adjustable upper a-arms. Always check the toe when making camber or caster adjustments.

The amount of static camber that you should run is a result of testing, pyrometer measurements, front suspension geometry and discussions with your car builder. Remember that poor camber settings will cause excessive tire wear. Camber settings set to extremes can reduce the braking ability of the car.

Caster Simplified

To understand caster you need to picture an imaginary line that runs from through the upper ball joint and extends through the lower ball joint. From the side view the imaginary line will tilt forward or backward. The tilting of this imaginary line is defined as caster.

Caster is measured in degrees by using a caster camber gauge. If the imaginary line described above tilts towards the back of the car, at the top, then you will have positive caster. If the imaginary line tilts forward then you would have negative caster.

Positive caster provides the directional stability in your racecar. Too much positive caster will make the steering effort difficult. Power steering will allow you to run more positive caster. Negative caster requires less steering effort but can cause the car to wander down the straightaway.

For oval track racing most racers run more positive caster on the right side tire than on the left. The caster split helps pull the car down into the turn, helps the car turn in the center and helps it stay hooked up on exit.

How much caster should you run? The amount and split depends on the type of car and track conditions. The details should be worked out with your car builder and through testing.

Toe Simplified

Toe is the pointing in or pointing out of the front wheels as viewed from the top of the car. If the front wheels point in, toward the engine, at the front edge of the wheels then you have toe in. If the front wheels point out at the front edge then you have toe out.

In general, racecars are set with a small amount of toe out. The toe out provides directional stability. Toe out pulls on the tie rods taking out the tiny clearances that are built into the tie rod ends. Depending on the type of car typical toe readings are 1/16" to ¼" out for tracks under ½ mile in length.

Toe should be checked often as any contact with other cars or retaining walls is likely to change your toe setting. Changes in ride height can have an effect on toe as well.

Toe can be set with a pair of toe plates that are rested on the sidewalls of the tires. A tape is placed on the toe plates in front of the tire and an additional tape behind the tire. When using toe plates a smaller tape reading on the back tape indicates toe out.

For a very precise reading you can scribe a line in each front tire. Use a tire scribe and spin each of the front tires to get your straight line. You can then measure between the two scribed lines with a tape measure or with a toe bar. As with toe plates, a smaller measurement at the backside of the tire indicates toe out.

Some racers use a toe bar to measure the toe that lies against the sidewall on one side of the racecar. On the other side, this toe bar extends past the sidewall by a few inches. A tape is used to measure from the toe bar back to the sidewall. When this system is used a smaller tape reading at the front of the tire indicates toe out. You will notice that this is opposite the two other methods described above.

 

Setting Toe Properly

You will get better more consistent results adjusting your toe in settings if you go the extra mile to eliminate variables. You must first decide which technique that you plan to use to take the measurements. Each technique offers different benefits and drawbacks. The methods discussed here will be the Toe Plate method, Toe Bar Method and Tire Scribe Method. If you understand each toe setting technique you will be assured of repeatable results.

Before you begin taking measurements you must insure that the car is race ready. Ride heights set, weight percentages correct, driver weight accounted for, bump steer set, camber and caster set, Ackerman set, air pressure set, stagger correct....you get the idea. You should also inspect the steering components and replace any that are worn or bent. Center up the steering before you begin. Center the drag link or rack so that the inner control pivots and inner tie rods are centered to each other. Tie rod lengths should be adjusted to match you lower control points if possible.

String the right side of the car to line up the right front to the right rear. By lining up the right side and starting with the right front in line with the right rear you will eliminate any Ackerman effect that is in the car. If the wheels are turned away from straight when you take your toe measurement the Ackerman effect can add toe out that will not be present when the wheels are straight ahead. Take the time to string the right side and you will get more precise results. Make sure to settle the car and roll it forward just before taking a reading. By rolling forward the caster in the car will pull the front wheels take any clearance in your suspension components all in one direction. Be sure not to let the car roll back after you have rolled it forward. By rolling the car forward each time you will get more accurate repeatable results. Be sure to roll the car back then forward after each adjustment to relieve any pressure in the tire and suspension components.

When taking toe measurements that utilize the side wall it is a good idea to spin each front tire and mark the high spots on the side wall with a piece of chalk. Jack up the car and spin the RF wheel. Hold a piece of chalk on a jack stand about 1/8" away from the sidewall. Spin the tire and see if the chalk hits anywhere on the sidewall. If the chalk does not leave a mark then move the chalk gradually closer until you get marks on the high spots. Then find the uniform spots on the side wall and orient the tire so that those points will touch the Toe bar or toe plate when the car is on the ground. Lower the car and repeat the process on the other side.

Toe Plate Method: Toe plates offer fast and easy measurement of the front end alignment. When using toe plates be sure to have the toe plates resting flat on the ground and centered on the tire. You should always be sure to have the toe plates flat against the side wall. Make sure that the plate is up against the side wall evenly on both sides. Air up the tires so that there is not a bulge at the bottom of the tire in the center due to under inflation. Go the extra mile and mark the high spots of the side wall with chalk. Use a tape measure to check the back of the tire and the front between toe plates. The toe plate method should give you a smaller number at the back of the tire if you want to have toe out. Remember that any bent wheels or imperfections in the side wall will affect your settings.

Toe Bar Method: When using a toe bar make sure that the toe bar is held in the same place on the side wall each time on both sides of the car. Make sure that the toe bar is straight up and that equal pressure is place both front and back. Chalk the wheels and take your measurements. Measure the difference from the toe bar to the side wall on the back and on the front. To have toe out you will need to see a larger measurement on the back side of the tire. This is opposite of the toe plate and Tire Scribe measurement techniques. Any wheel run out or side wall imperfections will have an effect on your readings.

Tire Scribe Method: Start by scribing a line in each front tire. By spinning the tire and scribing a line with a tire scribe you will take out any variables to bent wheels or side wall wobbles. Measure the front and back of the tire. A smaller number at the back side of the tire will produce toe out.

Regardless of the method used you should use care to adjust the tire rods equally so as to keep the geometry of the front end correct. Be sure to tighten all jamb nuts and other steering components as well as visually inspecting the steering system. All three methods can give you good results if you take your time and eliminate as many variables as possible.

 

ALUMINUM PANELS

 

RIVETING

I've been reading Carroll Smith's book, "Nut's Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing Handbook". He devotes an entire section on rivets and riveting techniques - a subject near and dear to our hearts. Also a subject that I didn't know there was so much to know about!

Anyway, I'm reading the book and thinking about installing all these rivets in my car. There should be a distinction between structural and non-structural rivets. And it seem that the FFR design is to use non-structural rivets in a structural area. The non-structural 1/8 pop rivet has a shear strength of about 200 lbs. The structural rivet has a shear strength of about 600 lbs. If you increase in size to 3/16, the shear strength is over 1,000 lbs.

Initially, there would not be a problem. But after a few years and a few thousand miles, things would start getting loose due to metal fatigue, and the car would begin to rattle and the handling would fade. That rattling and clunking can drive you crazy. After a few years, you could R&R most of the rivets to tighten them up again. But who wants to do that?
So I'm thinking that I can order a couple boxes of Cherry Q 3/16 structural rivets at about $21 a box and a few #11 drill bits from McMasters-Carr. I'm not really sure what would be structural. But I'll assume that any aluminum panels attached to steel tubing would be structural. Any panel attached to another panel would not be. So I'll drill all the holes with a #11 drill bit, and set the stronger/larger rivets at 1.5 - 2.0" spacing. bob)

Using 1/8" drill bits instead of #30 bits: a constant aggravation. (Forrest 1)

On a side note we never use 1/8 in bits, we use #30s as they are .03 larger than an 1/8 and make for almost never having to redrill a hole. Richard Oben)

If I may suggest an inexpensive alternative to all the welding and epoxying being suggested, I just used 1/8" stainless rivets instead of the cheezy aluminum ones. I realize that the silicone does the work of bonding, but the steel rivets pulled everything together more tightly before snapping than the aluminum ones did. I was also careful to run a thin (1/8") bead of silicone right across the rivet holes, so it sealed them up as it spread across the joint area. I used GE silver colored silicone and it actually looks pretty good. If you have some cheesecloth and denatured alcohol handy, the GE stuff cleans right up when fresh. You can use the cloth and alcohol to fillet all the joints and clean up excess silicone. It cleans up better when fresh than it does dry. (Joe Leone)

RIVNUTS

My son thinks I must have stock in the rivnut company. Every time I look at something I wonder if it would work better with a rivnut.

So far, I have used them for the trans tunnel, the shifter ring, the lower radiator panel where it mounts to the body, the rear cockpit wall to the body (all #10's). To mount the coil, vapor canister, starter solenoid, cable clamps for larger harnesses to the 3/4" tubing the vacuum sensors/solenoids (1/4") as well as to allow me to use 3/8" shoulder bolts to hold up the side pipe hangers (5/16")

I just don't like using the sheet metal screws.
And the transmission tunnel had me worried that the rivets were under a lot of stress. (Grock)

RIVNUTS are super little gizmos. But, like all things mechanical, there are a few tricks you'll want to use. Don't over pull them, because the threads rip out pretty easily. Just before you put them in for the final time, put a little dab of JB Weld or epoxy on them. Once they are installed, the JB Weld will act like a "key" so they won't spin. Finally, before you mount whatever it is you are using these for, run a screw or tap through to straighten out any threads that distorted during the installation. (Joe Leone)

DRIVER FOOTBOX ALUMINUM ASSEMBLY ORDER

The "book" says that after installation of the donor pedal box , the builder should seal and rivet the front driver foot-box panel...if this is done....it would make it impossible to install the rest of the driver foot-box aluminum....is this a mistake in the book (page 53 step 8) or am I misreading the instructions?

(Gordon Levy replies) Install the front, inside and bottom of the drivers foot box. Leave off the top and the outside panel until you are ready to install the body.

BUILD SEQUENCE

I installed the all rear cockpit aluminum (the big piece) before I installed the upper trunk floor. Fortunately, I had Russ's trunk kit - so I was able to cut out the hoop and get the piece in that way. (John Hudson)

Was very careful in aligning, drilling, and clecoing all of the aluminum for the foot boxes and floorboards before riveting. Everything was perfect until I tried to install the front vertical piece that ties both sides together. Lots of flexing of that piece to finally get it to fit (it actually cracked on one corner). If I had it to do over I would definitely include that vertical piece in the alignment process before doing any riveting. (David Douglas)

TREATING ALUMINUM PANELS

I'm using a process from the aircraft industry which is quite simple and inexpensive. Etch and alodine. Both processes are water based, easy to do and provide corrosion protection. The chemicals can be obtained from any of the aircraft suppliers. The only drawback is that the aluminum takes on a slightly gold tint when done...doesn't bother me. E-mail if you need a source for the chemicals. (Bob G)

 

BATTERY

BATTERY FLOAT CHARGER

On the boat, and I will do this on the Cobra build as well, I installed a 12V accessory jack directly to the battery through a 10 amp fuse, nothing else on the circuit. I then bought the charger that Wal mart sells, (small black potted unit for about $23) and wired a standard 12V plug to it. When I put the boat away for a time, I just plug into the jack and leave the charger on. It charges the battery to float voltage, then a red LED comes on to indicate a full charge. The last set of batteries I bought for the boat are over five years old now and still going strong. (Rick Harper)

I use one on my Optima battery. In fact, I just posted on another thread the advantage of having a power outlet connected directly to the battery on the rear cockpit wall. I can use the battery disconnect switch and cut of the rest of the system while I use my trickle charger to keep the battery topped off (John Hudson) Uses a model called Battery Tender.

BODY FIT OUT

 

DOOR PANEL TIP

I used 5/32" hardboard treated for waterproofing. This can be found at your local upholstery shop. The foam was about 1/16" or so and then vinyl over that. Cushy soft.(WeenDoggy)

 

PREFERRED METHOD OF PLUMBING DEFROSTER VENTS

http://www.cobraforum.com/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=3276;start=0

 

HOMEMADE DEFROSTER DUCT

I couldn't figure out any way to get a standard plastic defroster fitting to fit behind my AutoMeters, so I crafted my own fiberglass ductwork. Not real purty, but it seems to work ok.

I made a rectangular "mold" out of some poster board, and lined it w/ wax paper. I molded the basic ductwork using fiberglass mat and west systems epoxy. When it dried, I trimmed it and used a hole saw to cut a 2" hole. Then cut some thin aluminum (soda can), and rolled it up w/ wax paper on the outside and stuck it through the 2" hole to use as a form. I glassed the outside of that to form the 2" nozzle. Once done, I cut relief's every few inches so the whole works would bend enough to conform to the underside of the cowl, and glassed it in.

I cut the slots in the body with a plunge router and 3/8" bit. Worked like a charm. Use a straight-edge clamped to the body so the router doesn't get away from you! (Wade Chamberland - Cobra Forum)

FIREWALL INSULATION

That Home Depot stuff is Mylar coated polyethylene intended for household use. It might make you feel good thinking you've provided some heat protection, but only real heat shielding will do the job right. You need a double faced aluminum/ceramic fiber sandwich at least 3/16" thick to provide heat resistance 2" from the headers. I did the foot boxes, firewall and tunnel with such a product and the floors with a 1/2" automotive sound barrier. I only used the Home Cheapo crap for the rear bulkhead to provide a little extra cushioning. Here's a good starting point, but there are many other sources.

Insulshield <http://www.insulshield.net/pages/products.html>(Joe Leone)

 

BRAKE VENT BOOTS

http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=013293 (Cobra Earl)

CARPET UNDERLAYMENT

I think I'll go Thermo-tec on the foot boxes/firewall, Dynamat on the floors and transmission tunnel, and the Home Depot roof stuff on the rear wall. How much of the Thermo-Tec insulation should I buy for the foot boxes and firewall? How much Dynamat should I buy for the floors and trans tunnel. No problem with the Home Depot stuff as I could do the house for $100.(Tom )

CLEAR FENDER GUARDS

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17840&highlight=rear+fender+guard+clear

HOOD AND TRUNK LIFT SHOCKS

Actually Excalibur did all the science...

Mine are Stabilus "Lift o Mat":

Hood - Part #752908 0250N 330/96

Trunk - Part #FEN117 0210N 315/92

Available from: Van Tech 952 808 8629

Or ...Stabilus has a Web site where you can find a distributor
near you.

TIP FOR MOUNTING INTERIOR DOOR FINISH PANELS

Use "Christmas tree" type studs into predrilled holes

DOOR PULLS

Europa Specialist Spares, UK... page 17... item stock number (BSGH)... Chrome swivel grab handles (2) @ £11.00 ea = £22.00 = $35.20 + shipping and handling (Back in August 2000). They’re a little pricey... but they do the job... in keeping with the vintage style of the chrome MGB/carriage door latches (they’re probably more reliable too). (Bob Aruba)

FOOTBOX VENTS

The ducts I used were from Lefthander chassis, (815)389-9999. They are 5x9.75 and available with 3" hole centered or offset. Part #102-7009 is offset and 102-7022 is centered. Trimming is required to fit the face to the curved opening, then glass it in. $18.00 each, ask for a catalog...400 pages of good stuff!

You can go into Portland to Race Central, <http://www.racepartsnow.com/>, and they have lots of ducts that you could rig up behind the front end.

Cobra Restorers Ltd sells fresh air accessories......every thing you need.

I just installed aluminum blast gates from Grizzly and will use 3" aluminum flex tube to the brake vent holes. I have not gotten to the connection at the front yet but will probably use modified heat duct if I can't find something in fiberglass.

SEAT BELT SHOULDER HARNESS ANGLE

Seriously! Use your shoulder belts! But mount them correctly! We’re talking about incredible G-force loading should you ever experience an unexpected frontal impact, which can be (read) thousands of pounds for a typical male 170-250 pounds. And to contribute to minimal spinal compression injuries attempt to make sure the belts are at the very least mounted at least 5 degrees above the shoulder line to eliminate compressive forces in a frontal impact.

Shoulder harness mounts should be mounted high... close to shoulder level or higher. Otherwise you will be pushed down... not held back in the seat. But the angle up should not exceed 5 degrees for an upright driver position. Use your shoulder belts guys... they work!

TIP FOR TRUNK CARPET TEMPLATES

If you are planning on upholstering the interior of the trunk, and you are not planning on buying one of the precut carpet kits, I've got a tip for you. BEFORE you install the aluminum trunk floor pieces, take 5 minutes and make a template of them...complete with all the holes for roll bar and belt mounts. It's five minutes that'll save an hour or two of trying to make templates by cutting little bits of poster board around all the obstructions.
(Oldguy)

SHORTENED ROLL BARS

I shortened mine by about 2.5", and I think it's still more than 2" above my head. The original front mounting points stayed where they were, but the rear mounting stub had to be moved forward about 3" to fit without rebending anything. I can give you exact measurements as to the length of the uprights and diagonal if you want. Once the cuts are made, you simply slice the rear stub off the frame with a sawzall and move it forward until it fits the diagonal brace and weld it there. You also need to relocate the hole in the body, but that's just trial and error. Joe Leone)

INSTALLING SEATS

I have the Sube Cobra Classics and love 'em. I always felt like I was sitting on a barstool in the FFR seats and got a sore back after a few hours. With my new seats I've driven eight hours straight no problem. Like others said, you should pay $190 from any Sube dealer, not $250. I bought mine through Whitby.

With respect to mounting, I don't think you'll be able to use seat tracks. When you square up the seats their width puts the inboard side tight up against the trans tunnel. Due to the outward angle of the tunnel you won't be able to slide the seats forward. In fact, once I got the seats positioned where I wanted them I used a BFH and dimpled in the tunnel aluminum to allow the seat to sit square. They were tentative taps at first but by the end I was swinging a maul into the aluminum to get a nice dimple. Don't worry, wack away because you can't see the dimple when the seats are in.

The seat mounting holes do not line up with the frame. I mounted the seats on a 1/4" thick sheet of aluminum and then bolted the aluminum to the frame. Others have welded in brackets under the floor for mounting. One last thing, you'll have to move the parking brake forward about 1 1/2" inches.

For detailed installation pictures, go to Weendoggy's site. He was a big help to me with installation tips. (Rick Williams)

HOOD HINGE MODIFICATION

http://www.cobraforum.com/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=3175;start=0

I used the hinge from onlinecobra.com to do both trunk and hood. Easy install and works great.(Joe Leone)

WIND WING ATTACHMENT

I'm about ready to start the install of my Wind Wings. However I remember reading earlier that people recommend not useing the existing screws in the windshield frame for attaching the Wings. My instructions say to do just that. What is the reason not to use these screws? (Duane FFR2704)

The screws that hold the sides of the windshield on are threaded into brass (about 2 threads). Drill new holes (at the same place just toward the rear) and put nuts and bolts on the wing window mounts. This will make them fit nicer too. (Jeff Hamilton )

Best bet is to drill and tap threads. I found that easier and less stressing because I did not have to worry about cracking my windshield. For a flush fit, one can cut the supplied bolts to length and avoid using the acorn nuts on the inside of the frame. (Jose Borja)

Of note, Bill has a good method to avoid cracking the wind wings and visors. He uses nylon washers on both sides of the wings. This goes a long way in preventing any cracking. (Duane FFR2704)

THROTTLE PEDAL

Russ Thompson's pedal is highly recommended.  Contact him at rtcobra@attbi.com
http://www.norcal-cobras.com/store/russ_garage/russ_garage.htm

 

BODY PREPARATION AND PAINTING

FENDER WELL GUARDS

I put "Devinicel" or something similar to that word inside my wheel wells while building my new car. It's foam sheet, scribed into 1" squares, so you can form it to the contour of the inner fender. You glue it down, then glass over it. There are some pics at Foam inner fender <http://www.webscando.com/phoenix/phoenix15.htm> and a written description of that procedure is somewhere in the build diary, hey I just found it: Foam install <http://www.acuraworld.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=676&perpage=20&pagenumber=4> go to the 6-16-02 entry. I'm sorry I don't know the exact name of the material used; it came from my fiberglass expert friends, but it's available at fiberglass supply shops. 8,000 miles so far on my new car with no visible fender damage, even over lots of dirt roads. Hope that helps. John Phillips)

UNDERCOAT TIP

For those undercoating their cars with truck bed liner products here is a good tip... Complete the under-liner first prior to painting the body. I did it the opposite way and taped off all openings real nice like so the shiny part would not be not so shiny. Turns out the underside of these bodies are real porous and the bed liner product soaks in like a sponge. Any pinholes or thin spots (mine were around wheel openings and headlight openings) bled up through the shiny side. If you were to apply the under side first the body prep to the top layer would cover the black.. My fix was with a small detail spray gun and it was a pain in the but! Joe )

Body Work Steps

Before the seams:

Put the body on the chassis and align all of the panels. Drill any holes for emblems, lights, etc, be sure to wash the body really good with a wax and grease remover, then follow with Comet on scotchbrite and hot water.

Seam Process:

I grind the seams and cut the body open and fill the seams with 3M vinyl ester blister repair filler in one day. I let it set for 2 weeks. I follow up with Rage to fair out the body, and let it set for a couple days, then prime it and let it set for a week or so. I block it and prime it again. if all looks well it will set for a couple weeks. In between I do the panels, hood and trunk hinges etc. After paint, I let it set for 3-5 days, and cut and buff it.

I wouldn't want to do it in any less than 30 days. Here's the reason. if you do the body work, prime it, it block it and shoot it in a week or so. then cut and buff it right away, it will look fantastic....for about a month. the fillers and primers will shrink, and you will have picturing under your paint. regardless of the types of fillers and primers that you use.

I use Rage and Rage Gold over the 3M vinyl ester blister repair filler. The repair filler is to do the filling of the ground out seam and that's all. If you try to use it beyond that, it makes a mess and is a B%$tch to sand. the vinyl ester filler is also difficult to sand. The main reason to use the blister repair filler is that it will not "picture" under the paint. that is the major concern with the way the seams are ground out. use the Rage to fair out the area. let it cure a couple days after you rough it in with 40 grit. then finish it out with 80 then 150 and prime it.

I do these cars in my sleep and faithfully use 3m's vinyl ester blister repair filler. a gallon will do 3 cars. use it for the seam area and deep work like you described, then fair it out with a high quality body filler like Rage. The vinyl ester repair filler has chopped fiber in it and uses a resin that is compatible with the body.

*Wipe down done with PrepsAll

Grinding seams:

As for grinding the seams, here is my preferred method. I use a DA with 80 grit and knock them down flat. you will see a "stripe" of gel coat in the middle of the bare glass. I use a die grinder with a 1/4" wide grinding stone and remove 99% of the stripe. you will probably go anywhere from 1/16"-1/8" deep. After the stripe is gone, I use and angle die grinder with a 50 grit disc to taper the void from the stripe. Tape it off about and inch wide and fill with 3m vinyl ester repair filler until it is just level, not above. I DA with 80 to make the transition smooth and then fair it out with Rage Gold.

When filling the seams, you might want to tape to contain and limit the mess. When you get to the Rage part... make sure the tape is gone allowing you to fair in the rage with the gel coat.

Seams:

On seams, the gray "stripe" of gel coat needs to go. the gel coat could separate and leave a crack. had it happen. better safe than sorry. take it down another 1/16" then use the 3m blister repair. Don't try to use it as a fairing, just fill until nearly level. follow up with rage to get the contour correct.

On spots where I went through the gel coat block sanding, around seams, and by the edges of body panels. I personally use Feather fill to cover the burn through areas, URO Primer should also work. Make sure you let it cure a few days before you block it. Also, if using West systems Rage works fine over it.

Hood and Hoop:

I use the 3M vinyl ester blister repair filler as a bonding agent for the hood hoop, but I also follow it up with a coat of fiberglass mat and vinyl ester resin.

3m's vinyl ester Blister repair filler for the initial fill, 3m vinyl ester fairing filler or Rage for the final fairing. About a quart and a half of the blister repair filler will do the seams on one car, and a gallon of Rage for fairing. the blister repair filler is also a very good bonding agent as listed on the spec sheet, or 3m's structural adhesive. I always follow with one layer of glass and resin as added insurance.

The 3m stuff goes on easy, It also matches the bodies composition better. on the back of the hood, it depends on if you are bonding the hinge on or not. If not, use gel coat with a surface curing agent added. If you are bonding the hinge on, use Rage to fair it out.

Wheel Openings:

I DA with 80 the edge down to a consistent 1/4" roll all the way around. sometimes the cutout is off so I have to build it up with glass.

Painting:

I use Featherfil for the first step, then Dupont's 2k Urethane filler primer. The Featherfil works very good for the first stage and you can glaze over it if you missed some pinholes. block it with 180 and follow up with a high quality 2k Urethane.

Base coat over K36 is fine, but make sure it is thoroughly sanded with no less than 400 grit. if you have any sand scratches deeper than 400, they will be hard to fill with the basecoat. if they aren't covered, they will show through the clear. single stage paints should have a sealer before they are sprayed or you could end up with a fisheye problem.

Clear can be wet or dry sanded, wet being the better was as the water washes away the dust and debris that could scratch the finish. as for sanding the base coat, you can as long as you lay a couple even coats just prior to clear. otherwise the scratches from sanding will be magnified by the clear coat.

Color sanding:

As for color sanding... Most clears say to wait 16-24 hours and cut with 1500. that is with optimal conditions i.e. 70d constant during that 16-24 hour window, as well as perfect mixing and application. well all painters know that if you don't have the optimal conditions, you must adjust the mixing, application, and dry time. I personally wait about 48 hours to color sand during the winter months, and about 36 hours during the summer, as I cannot always keep the shop at 70d and stay in business. anyhow, I start with 1000-1200 paper on a soft block like the one listed here using the black side. if you like a slight orange peel OEM look, use the gray side.
<http://www.motorguard.com/sur_1_1.html> follow with 1500. make sure you only sand what you can buff, i.e. no edges, door jambs etc. I buff with a Wool pad and Finessit III by 3m. I always cover each section twice. wash off the compound residue and follow that with 3m glaze on a black foam pad at slow speed(<1200 rpm). Use Hand glaze to remove any swirls and your done.

Undercoating:

The stuff I use is here
<http://www.mortonpaint.com/products/index.html>
it is a 2 part urethane epoxy that will coat bare fiberglass with no problems. you must scuff the bare fiberglass prior to coating.

I use the good stuff for the u/c. it builds to about 3/16" in one coat. it will prevent a rock from putting a star crack in your new paint. I thin it 10% for the spats and it works great. if I only used it for spats, it may cost about $20 in material 'cause I could do 10 cars with the kit. I can't say the same for the $3.99 a can stuff. it goes on like thick paint, stays kind of tacky, and peels off once it dries out when used as undercoat).

Spats:

I have done a few with the truck bed liner 2 part epoxy. it works really good, and is very durable. I also know quite a few who have used 3m's rocker shutz.

This is the stuff that I use
http://www3.uschem.com/uscp/display_product?pass_product_class=330&pass_ category_number=31&pass_catalog_number=1 <http://www3.uschem.com/uscp/display_product?pass_product_class=330&pass_category_number=31&pass_catalog_number=1>

I use it for spats, as well as for undercoating the backside of the fender wells. $180 per kit, I can undercoat and spat 2 ffr's.

Products:

1. 3M vinyl ester blister repair filler
2. Rage and Rage Gold
3. 3m vinyl ester fairing filler
4. PrepsAll
5. Featherfil

Products from Finishmaster. they are a national automotive paint supplier. my local rep called 3m and they drop shipped it directly to me.

Here is the link to the product that I use.
http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?xxxxxxfDPILxR9Yxj9Yxxx8 M2I_XXXXv- <http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?xxxxxxfDPILxR9Yxj9Yxxx8M2I_XXXXv->

I routinely use the 3m blister repair filler. a quart should do your seams
Rage you can get at any auto body supply store.

<http://www.motorguard.com/sur_1_1.html>

Buffing and cutting:

3M compounds:

Perfect-It 3 Rubbing compound
Perfect-It 3 Machine glaze
Perfect-It 3 Finishing compound

They were $20 to $30 per quart EACH

I used the 3M products as well in the following order after wet sanding.

3M(tm) Perfect-It tm) III Rubbing Compound

3M(tm) Perfect-It tm) III Machine Glaze

3M(tm) Perfect-It tm) III Finishing Glaze

By the way, if you are interested in any of these items and can't find them locally, you can find them all online at
<http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/>

I used the 3M compound pad for the compound
<http://www.cobralads.com/paint/DSC00009.JPG.html>

and then the softer buffing pads for the machine glaze
<http://www.cobralads.com/paint/DSC00010.JPG.html>

Web Sites:

http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?xxxxxxfDPILxR9Yxj9Yxxx8 M2I_XXXXv- <http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?xxxxxxfDPILxR9Yxj9Yxxx8M2I_XXXXv->

http://www3.uschem.com/uscp/display_product?pass_product_class=330&pass_ category_number=31&pass_catalog_number=1 <http://www3.uschem.com/uscp/display_product?pass_product_class=330&pass_category_number=31&pass_catalog_number=1>

<http://www.motorguard.com/sur_1_1.html>

<http://www.mortonpaint.com/products/index.html>

 

PRIMING

no real reason to use an epoxy primer over the glass, and definitely not over the body filler. PPG used to recommend priming anything that you worked on first with DP primer. then do your filling over it. I cannot get their old DP primer here in Cal, only their DP LF (lead free) version. definitely don't use it over or under your filler. anyhow, do your bodywork, fill as many pinholes as you can find, then prime with Featherfil. block sand that, and re-fill any leftover pinholes. if you are satisfied with the work, prime again with k-36. if not, do some more filling and fairing work. it's ok to do minor filling over Featherfil. anyhow, when it seams pretty smooth and wave free, prime with k-36, 2-3 coats. the k-36 will seal in the polyesters and give the body a smooth surface. block sand that with 280, then follow up with 400. if you don't burn through, you won't need to seal it. if you do, just shoot one final coat of k-36 reduced 10% with urethane reducer. sand it with 600 and you're ready for paint. good luck, cheers, SRP

SANDING BLOCK RECOMMENDATION

I use a sanding block made by Dura-block. it is high density foam rubber and it's about 1" in diameter. Eastwood sells the assortment of blocks including this one for $50. cheers, SRP

BODY PREPARATION VIDEO

To order, please send $15 to:
North Racecars, Inc.
7321 North Wayne Ave.
Gladstone, MO 64118
(816) 436-1610

WHEEL WELL COATING

I used the brush on bed liner. It worked very well. Although brushing it on takes longer I felt that I could do a neater job and not worry about over spray.

I have not heard of the stuff you mention. The only thing I would say is that I have heard some undercoating type products can actually eat through the fiberglass and effect your paint job.

I was very careful not to put the first coat on too thick. They say that you should put it on thinner than the other two coats.

Be sure and paint on a good coat of black epoxy to seal the glass surface before spraying/rolling the bed liner in the arches to seal the glass surfaces. If you do not do this, when stones or whatever loosens the liner it will create a void that will possibly fill with moisture that can possibly capillary thru to cloud the glass/paint at that point, depending on the amount of FGRP crazing.

UNDERBODY PAINT

I bought a gallon of paint on bed liner from Wal-Mart. The body is yellow w/ white stripes and the black wheel wells look great. Even better the stuff really works. It prevents any kind of road abrasion. I did the entire under body.

SEAM FILLER

I know why you want to use the flox and balloons since it's what you know. I thought the same thing before I started my seams. Don't worry about it. Do it SRP's way. Just get the 3M blister repair to fill the groove, and the Rage to do the top and shape it all out. It's just as easy (easier actually) than working with the epoxy, flox, and micro balloons. A couple of weekends and you'll be 90% done with the seams. (Advil)

I use Featherfil. some guys use slick sand, some use K-36 or K-200. if the body guy is comfortable using his product, it should be fine. just make sure that he doesn't change the seam filler. use only west system's epoxy, or 3m Vinyl ester repair filler. if he uses any other product for the main part of the fill, he will be re-doing it in a couple months. good luck, and as always, Cheers, (SRP)

I use Rage Gold. it matches the gel coat better than the 3m fairing filler. gel coat is polyester based. the main lay-up of the body is vinyl ester, hence the reason to use the vinyl ester for any deep filling. fair it out with Rage Gold. it sands easier and costs quite a bit less. cheers, (SRP)

Don't go much deeper than 1/8". also make sure you taper the ground out area to avoid a sharp edge at the top. sharp edges picture. neither the flox or micro balloons are like Rage Gold. Hetonite and talc is what is in Rage Gold. both are compatible though if you plan to use Rage Gold over west systems. cheers, (SRP)

It is this stuff, called High strength repair filler #046014 a unique vinyl ester formulation. cheers, (SRP)

SRP, After many calls and visits to a few marine supply stores, I picked up 3M Marine Blister and Repair Filler #46013. In your earlier response you mentioned using #46014. Are you aware of any big difference between the two? Can I use the 46013 to bond my hood hoop? It may seem trivial but I rather not be picking my hood up off the road. (Vermont Cobra)

The item number is different on the quantity:
46014 = gallon size
46013 = quart size
46012 = pint size       (EJ's Wife)

HOOD HINGE BONDING

Oldguy, use the blister repair filler for your bonding agent. if you prefer to avoid using mat, then do the following. drill 4 to 6 1/4" holes in the plates that will attach to the body, (assuming you're using some type of different hood or trunk hinges than FF). the on the side not being bonded, use a countersink and taper those holes out to about 3/8". grind the back of the plates with a 40 grit disk. sand the corresponding area of the body with 80 grit as well. then, using the blister repair filler, bond the plates in place. the filler will ooze out the holes you drilled. spread the filler over the tapered hole. when it cures, it will not be removable, so make sure you have it right. hope this helps, Cheers, (SRP)

FIBERGLASS CRACK REPAIR

Ouch, materials: 3mblister repair filler or Mar-glass, Rage or Rage Gold body filler, die grinder with 40 grit grinding disc or dremel tool, wax and grease remover or Comet, 40 grit, 80 grit, 180 grit, and 400 and 1000 wet or dry paper. urethane primer, fiberglass mat, either polyester or vinyl ester resin with catalyst, adhesion promoter Dupont 222s(if you are going to attempt a blend), base color, clear coat. ok you need to make sure there's no wax on the surface, so clean with wax and grease remover, or comet/scotchbrite and hot water. find the end of the crack and drill a 1/8" hole through the body to stop the crack from going any further. with a die grinder and a 40 grit disc grind the crack into a V shape. then sand the surface about 2" beyond the crack with 80 grit. if the car was painted you will want to have an area about 1/2" on either side of the crack down to bare glass tapering out through the layers of gel coat, primer and paint to about 2-3". blow off any dust, and place masking tape on either side of the crack so that only the bare glass and crack are exposed. fill to just below level with 3m blister repair filler if you can find it, or Mar-glass. remove the tape and let cure. scuff the filler with 40 grit and skim coat the area with Rage or Rage Gold body filler. you will want to scuff sand the back of the crack at this point with 40 grit. make sure the area is clean before you scuff. cut a 2"x4" piece of mat, mix up the resin and lay-up one layer of resin and mat. go back to the rage and rough shape it with 40 grit, final shape with 80 grit, and then final sand it with 180. sand the surrounding area about 6" diameter) with 400 wet). then prime. let it set a few days. sand the primer with 400 wet, if the shape is good, then sand about a 12" area with 1000grit wet. now you're ready for a blend. if you need this info, let me know and I'll walk you through it as well. cheers, (SRP)

BONDED PLATES FOR BODY MOUNTING

I'm torn between two choices here. One the one hand, I'd be happy to leave the bolts as the primary fastening if I could get a really trick looking bolt. On the other hand, it'd be nice to have no bolts at all. Do you think 3M Blister repair is strong enough to bond stud plates to the inside of the body? I figured I could make up the plates (with plenty of holes), bolt the plates to the correct orientation, and then bond them to the finished body. I intended to use nuts on both side of the frame mounting plate instead of spacers, so I could jack the body stud plates right into position before bonding. What's your opinion? (Joe Leone)

That's precisely what I do. make sure you have them where you want them, once the blister repair filler cures, you would have to cut them off. also, do it before you paint. the blister repair filler generates quite a lot of heat when curing. it could bubble the paint. cheers, (SRP)

I use a piece of 1.5" x 6" 1/8" steel with 2 5/16" studs welded to it for each one. Cheers, (SRP)

SRP LONG BOARDS

As for long boards, I use several. if I catch the filler as it is curing and not too hard, I use an 18"durablock with stick it paper. if the filler is hard, I use a 18" aluminum shoed board. it has a thin layer of holy rubber on the paper side with a handle. if it is really hard, I use either my air file, or orbital air board by Hutchins. I use a shorter block for the tight areas, about 6-9" long, and a round block for the inside curves. those are made by Durra Block. good luck, (SRP)

ROLLED BODY EDGES

http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=24;t=000062#000002

 

UNDERCOAT TIP

For those undercoating their cars with truck bed liner products here is a good tip... Complete the under-liner first prior to painting the body. I did it the opposite way and taped off all openings real nice like so the shiny part would not be not so shiny. Turns out the underside of these bodies are real porous and the bed liner product soaks in like a sponge. Any pinholes or thin spots (mine were around wheel openings and headlight openings) bled up through the shiny side. If you were to apply the under side first the body prep to the top layer would cover the black.. My fix was with a small detail spray gun and it was a pain in the but! Joe )

BODY SEAMS

like John said, I use 3m's vinyl ester line. I use the blister repair filler for the main seam work, then follow up with Rage. I haven't used the premium vinyl ester filler, but I'm sure it would work fine. I use Rage for the fairing after the main seam work, as it more closely matches the first primer that I use which is Featherfil. either way will work, but make sure your main fill is with a vinyl ester filler. cheers, SRP

this is the stuff. part # 046014 by 3m marine. cheers, SRP

PAINT PRODUCTS

Use Rage Gold for final fairing. Featherfil or Slicksand for you major blocking. if you can get it, move on to PPG k-36 for your final prime and block. I use Dupont color and clear, although I don't like most of their VOC compliant primers and I can't get K-36 either. I use Spies 2k primer, but any high quality 2k urethane primer will work for that step. block it with 280 and then seal. scuff sand the seal coat with 600 then spray. hope this helps, cheers, SRP

RAGE GOLD FAIRING FILLER

Is this the stuff you use? If so, how much do I need to do the new body? The guy that is going to paint mine also said I need to get some 2 pat epoxy stuff to finish it...any idea what he may be taking about? Rage Gold <http://shop.papaint.com/browse.cfm/2,148.html>

LONG BOARD RECOMMENDATION

I would keep it in the house so that the temp stays around 60-70d. if it gets too cold or too warm, it will separate and get lumpy. as for long boards, I use several. if I catch the filler as it is curing and not too hard, I use an 18"durablock with stick it paper. if the filler is hard, I use a 18" aluminum shoed board. it has a thin layer of holy rubber on the paper side with a handle. if it is really hard, I use either my air file, or orbital air board by Hutchins. I use a shorter block for the tight areas, about 6-9" long, and a round block for the inside curves. those are made by Durra Block. good luck, SRP

GUIDE COAT PAINT

Use only lacquer based paint in a rattle can for guide coat.

PAINT QUANTITY

I normally use 3 quarts, but buy a gallon for the main color. 1 quart for the stripes, and a gallon of clear, plus the activator and reducer. cheers, SRP

SPRAY GUN FOR PRIMER

also, yes a cheapo for your primer works good. Harbor Freight has a Central pneumatic that is decent for primer. about $75. cheers, SRP

PAINT RECOMMENDATIONS

You will want to lay down 3-4 coats of base. the key is having the primer/sealer the correct shade for the topcoat. with yellow, your starting shade should be VS-1(dupont)which is a very light shade of gray, almost white. yellow is very transparent, so make sure that the body is a solid shade before spraying the color. if you are striping, do the body color first and lay one coat of clear. sand 600/mask stripes, and spray the stripes. this way you are not trying to cover a different shade with the yellow. hope this makes sense. you will want 3 full coats of clear on the final clear coat. buy a gallon of base and a gallon of clear. I prefer Dupont, but PPG is fine as well. cheers, SRP

TIME REQUIRED FOR BODY PREP AND PAINT

80-90 hours max if experienced. cheers, SRP

SPRAY PATTERN TIPS FROM SRP

Mike, all Q's are good Q's. yes I have a pattern. I use the same pattern every time, with every step from primer to final clear. Don't tell anyone but here it is. start with the back, at the bottom, right to left up to trunk opening, inside trunk opening at bottom, over and up to top of taillights. two passes around trunk opening sides and top, then continue over to the right of trunk opening over to gas filler. go back to left of trunk opening, out to top of fender. only go from top of taillight to imaginary line equal to top of trunk opening. then back right, start at bottom of rear quarter, up to your last spray at gas opening, down up and over inside and out of fender opening, continue up and over fender and onto rear deck halfway across. go down front edge of same quarter, bottom of door jamb, up and around rear cockpit edge. go left, start at bottom of quarter, up till you meet the last spray at top of quarter, go inside/out down up and around quarter opening, to top of fender. hit rear left cockpit edge, bring your spray across deck to top of quarter. the go down leading edge of quarter, do rear and bottom of jamb. go around right, starting at bottom of body side, full length fender opening to fender opening, up to door jamb. do forward edge of jamb. bring spray up and over top of fender to hood jamb. do jamb, front side and rear, move across front cowl, then front cockpit edge. bring spray up over and down front fender flair, under nose, and up to underside of nose opening including front of headlight area and inside edge of front fender facing top of nose. go to left bottom, up to door jamb, do leading edge of jamb, up across cockpit front edge, and bring spray across to top of fender at windshield hole. go back to side and bring it on up and over top of fender, do hood jamb, front back and rear. go back to right of nose, bring across to left fender, up and melt in. go back to left fender flair and bring down and across lower front. this is just my pattern. do it how you like, but the object is to not let the finish flash before you're back to melt it in. most important on clear coat, but doing it the same every time, helps to achieve the best results every time. cheers, SRP

Man...I could write a book, go off and forget the other part of the Q. anyhow, headlamps. yes and no. I don't use them to dry basecoat or clear coat, primers or fillers. I use them during the winter to "cure and cycle" the fillers and primers only. I cycle each part with heat, 20 min at 160d. I usually do it a few times. hot and cold cycles are the best way to avoid shrinkage down the road. anyhow, back to the painting pattern. you need to be quick, but not sloppy. if you move too fast you create dust, so move along quickly, make sure you have even coverage, and all will be fine. even a dry edge in clear, can be melted using slow reducer back over it. and if you're spraying in a garage, you're probably going to want to color sand and polish anyhow which will remove that type of flaw as well. good luck, Cheers, (SRP)

TOOL TIPS FROM SRP

safety: face shield, safety glassed, but shield is better. a box of good dust masks, not the super cheapo's, get the ones with the one way valve. a little more $$, but they won't fog up your shield. rubber gloves, leather gloves, and a must have, bottle of baby powder. rub yourself down with it before you start grinding fiberglass. it will help to wash off the particles. for painting, at least an active charcoal respirator and painting goggles. better is a supplied air respirator. the chemicals can enter your system through your eyes and skin, so be sure to be covered up.
compressor: 80 gallon, 5 horse minimum. at least 12 cfm at 40psi, 15 at 40 better.
get a water trap for it and install it at least 25' away from the compressor. a moisture filter at the gun is good too, MotorGuard makes throw aways
die grinders, both straight and angle. harbor freight sells them for $25 each
get a DA sander, a jitter bug is nice as well as an Air Long board.
HVLP spray gun, throw away the old high pressure guns as they waste material and will cover your garage in over spray. Sharp and DeVillbiss are good inexpensive units, SATA, Binks, and Iwata are your top of the line units. get a 1.3 tip for basecoat, a 1.4 or 1.5 for clear coat, and a 1.7 - 2.0 for primer.
sanding equipment, see above, plus multiple sanding blocks. I use a set of sanding blocks made by DuraBlock, many different sizes. I also use several wood long boards (6", 12", 18") with a rubber covered aluminum shoe. the final block that I use is the SB-1 from MotorGuard. it has a hard rubber side and a soft rubber side. good for final sanding of your primer after blocking and color sanding your clear coats. the hard side will remove orange peel. lots of sandpaper. 40 and 80 grit long board, 180 and 280 dry paper in sheets and sticky rolls. 80 and 180 DA paper. 400, 600, 1200, 1500, 2000 wet. you may need 800 or 1000 if your clear needs a lot of color sanding, but you may need to re-clear if you sand with it. (SRP)



 

BODY STRIPE

 

BRAKES

 

PORTERFIELD BRAKE PADS

You may want to consider the Porterfield R4S Carbon Kevlar pad. Very grabby, low dust and rotor friendly. I have these on my Cobra and ran it at Pocono North Course. Never faded.
<http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/>

R-4 S: Street High-performance & Limited Competition
The high performance street pad of choice. Very high friction level even at cold temperatures.

R-4 E: Endurance Racing Pads with Longer Life
This endurance pad, with special formulation for long races, runs cool and wears longer than our regular R-4. Great for extended time events.

R-4 Carbon Kevlar
Ten years old and still an outstanding race pad, the original R-4 Carbon Kevlar has proven to be versatile and a superior performing product. We have added two new compounds to compliment the R-4. (Roscoe)

 

 

JEEP MASTER CYLINDER

 

Richard has confirmed that the correct bore size for the Jeep Master Cylinder is, indeed, 15/16".

On a hunch, I pulled a very clean aluminum master cylinder from a standard 1989 Disc/Drum Jeep Cherokee at the local U-Pull yard. For $6 I thought I would take a chance. Guess what - 15/16". I now have my master cylinder. (Randy)

Protection of polished metal is a very complex topic.  There are a lot of products out there with fantastic claims. Unfortunately not all of them are true. The purpose of this post is to spark a dialog on clear finishes. What are your experiences? Which products do you recommend and which do you not recommend?  I'll start this off with the coatings I know about. Please post comments about your experience with these or any other coatings that are not on the list.

JEEP MC PUSHROD MODIFICATION

I used the Jeep MC plunger but cut it, threaded it and used a collar nut with lock nuts at either end. If you go this route, make certain the splice is as far toward the pedal end of the plunger as it can be so the lock nut at the other end doesn't interfere with the plunger entrance to the MC. 15 minute job.http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=012972 (Todd Buttrick)

Call Jeff Collins at Whitby's and order an adjustable pushrod, this way you can set it to the exact length you need and it should provide the additional leverage that you may not currently have with a pushrod that is too short. Haven't installed mine yet, but didn't want to mess around with cutting one down, etc.(Drew)

DISASSEMBLE AND REASSEMBLE SN95 SPINDLES

I want to sandblast my rusty 'ol SN95 spindles, so I was going to take off the hubs. Last night I popped the dust cover off and got a little intimidated. I don't recognize the type of cage on the nut. How do you get that off? Does the bearing have to be pressed off? I want to replace the seals while I am at it. Has anyone done this?(Joe)

Piece of cake, don't worry about it - I've done two sets in less time than it takes to write this.

It's a multi-plate captured nut, uses a 35 or 36 MM socket (which you can get at pep-boys or any good auto parts store). The nuts are for one-time use but are readily available.

Use a gear puller to remove the hub (should come off easily). I then clean the upright and hub surfaces with solvent and blow dry, then tape off the spindle (the shiny part) and bearing areas of the hub with masking tape (do a good job on the hub!) and blast away. Be very careful not to rupture or loosen the tape covering the bearings.

FWIW, the bearings on the SN95 hubs are not replaceable....it might just be easier/better to replace them.(Barry Mattingly)

Do I need to pry open the cage on the nut, or just take the whole thing off? What should I torque it to when I put it back on?(Joe)

Nope, get a 36mm socket, you can "borrow" them from places like pep boyz, the whole nut stays together. When you put a NEW nut back on, don't reuse the old one, the torque value is 250 ft. lbs.(FFR2372)

STEERING RACK RELOCATION TO HELP ACKERMAN

http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=005373#000003

 

GREAT WEB SITE FOR FFR BRAKES

http://cobrasite4.home.attbi.com/sn95_upgrade_front.HTM

WEB SITE FOR FRPP BRAKE INSTALL


<http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/brake.html>

FLARING BRAKE LINES

Did the double-flare myself. First tried a cheap kit from Harbor Frieght. Bad Idea. Then got the one from Snap-0n - much happy.
Be aware however, that following the directions to the letter is very important. If you have the tube too high/low during the first flare, you are screwed. Likewise if you fail to properly file the edges of the cut prior to flare, you are screwed.
Since I kept "all" of the donor's brake line, I used it to
practice with prior to moving to the car.
My process (that finally produced good flares every time)
1) Cut the pipe.
2) Deburr the inside.
3) File outside edge of pipe to 45 deg angle
4) 220 grit paper to clean where the tool would clamp.
5) Clamp on tool, tightening side closest to pipe first.
6) Re-torque that sucker again. And again. (most common failure for double flare? The dang pipe slips out of the tool during the first compression)
7) *LIGHTLY* oil die. (shot of WD-40 is what I used)
8) place die on pipe and flare. (I found using the hanging hole on a 12" adjustable wrench worked great to apply some extra torque)
9) Remove die, and examine first flare. If it's off center, or appears to not have bulged, start over, there is no point in going on.
10) assuming 9 was ok, peform single flare step - again examine for centered non-cracked pipe.

Making the flares this way, the only places I had any leaks were in the pre-formed pipes - none of my flares leaked when I did the brake bleed

PRE FLARED BRAKE LINES RECOMMENDED

Here is the list of lines and adapters that I got from NAPA for about $20:

Passenger Front:
(2) 7/16"-24 double flare (DF) to 3/8"-24 DF adapter -- NAPA/Edelmann 7818
(1) 72" preflared 3/16" line w/ std 3/16" DF fittings (3/8"-24)
Driver Front:
(1) 7/16"-24 DF to 3/8"-24 DF adapter -- NAPA/Edelmann 7818
(1) 10mm-1 BUBBLE flare to 3/8"-24 DF adapter -- Edelmann 271300
(1) 20" preflared 3/16" line w/ std 3/16" DF fittings (3/8"-24)
Rear:
(1) std 3/16" brake line coupler -- NAPA/Edelmann 302X3
(1) 40" preflared 3/16" line w/ std 3/16" DF fittings (3/8"-24)
(1) 72" preflared 3/16" line w/ std 3/16" DF fittings (3/8"-24)
BRAKES

Chose the alum 84 Jeep MC as well. Fits good. Lightweight. Using SS Brakes prop valve. ($50 for SS vs $90 for WW)(LIJ)

If you have the Mustang rod it works fine. The Jeep rod can be cut and sleeved or the Whitby rod is also fine.

The Jeep MC is correct for PBR brakes all around. A weatherhead 7829 fitting for the front with 2 edelman 121034s for the MC. One in the Weatherhead and one on the other port. Hope this helps.

PS When we do a car the only adaptor in the whole car is that one weather head. Well, the prop valve has the pipe to double flare so I guess that is another pair of adaptors. Cheers Richard.

cobraman, do you know the size of the fitting that goes on the 84 jeep mc, the one closest to the mounting flange.(Boomer) "Try a 3/16 female tube to a 1/4 male tube adapter."

JEEP MASTER CYLINDER

On the IRS cars we trade in the Mustang front calipers for the Lincoln units (bolts right up). We use the Jeep MC, PN 10-1896 with a prop valve for the rear. We put the prop valve on the 2X3 behind the seat. Very simple plumbing there was a thread a couple of days ago I listed all the parts needed. Hope this helps. Cheers Richard. I have some pics if you want to email me.(Richard Oben FFR builder)

We have used, and continue to use, for disc/disc and disc/drum the 84 Jeep manual brake master cylinder (pn 10-1896). We use an adjustable Proportioning valve for both set ups. When you are complete, and feel the brakes to be less than perfect, invest in some good pads and shoes. It is a good system if set up right. We have never put power brakes on a car yet. Hope this helps. Cheers Richard.

No suggestions. It is a ford unit. AMC Jeep in 84 still boroughed parts from everyone else. We hook up a mighty vac for all the brake systems we bleed. Not that it is needed just that it makes it faster. Pump up the vac and hit the pedal. Drains fluid out of the resivoir in a hurry. FFR has the jeep unit on the coupe and it works great. If all the fittings are hooked up and it was bench bled you wont need the vac. Hope this helps. Cheers Richard.

http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=11;t=000073#000000

I am hoping you would know the bore size of the Jeep Master cylinder you are telling us to use. (15/16 bore. Cheers Richard.)

http://cobrasite4.home.attbi.com/jeep_mc_tip.HTM (good discussion of Jeep MC)

GORDON'S BRAKE RECOMMENDATION

The FMS kit is a decent kit and the price is right. I use ether the Baer kit (very simular to the FMS kit), or the 6 piston Wilwood kit. The Wilwood is the best brakes I have ever put into one of these cars.

FRONT BRAKE RECCOMMENDATION

You may consider upgrading the brakes to the ones found on 99+ V6/V8 Stangs. They are lighter and more powerful than the SN95 ones and they bolt right up to the SN95 spindles. They are aluminum PBR dual piston with a 10.8" rotor. They are very similar to the Cobra brakes but lighter, they are made by the same company. Personally, I think CObra brakes are overkill unless you count onusiong your car on an open track. These cars are way too light to need such heavy duty brakes. Go for the lower unsprung weight. 13" rotors weigh quite a bit (but is is neat to see the cobra logo between your wheel spokes).You can find these brakes easily as many stangers are installing cobra and bullitt brakes on their heavy cars and need to get rid of their almost new stock brakes. I got mine for $120 with new rotors, almost new pads and calipers.

The 94-95 spindles are the same, they have the same track as FOX body stangs. The 96-98 are the same except they have a wider track. This wider track may or may not work with your wheels. The 99+ GT/V6 brakes will bolt up to 94 and newer spindles. Not sure about the cobras, but why would you want to give up cobra brakes? Anyhow, there is a writeup and pics of the swap at www.svo73mm.cjb.net <http://www.svo73mm.cjb.net> (GREAT site by the way)You need to grind a very tiny amount off the spindle (about a millimeter, takes less than 5 min), put spacers on the lower ball joint, or even better, use SN95 ball joints. I used the spacer since it came with the spindles (I paid $140 I think). You can even use the soft lines that come with the brakes. I may have a set of soft lines laying around since I went with stainless braided ones. (FFroggy)

I found a set of SN94/95 spindles with complete front setup (spindles, calipers, hubs, rotors, and brackets) in pretty good shape for around $250 shipped.

I paid $150 from a local junk yard. You'll want to replace the calipers anyways and at least have the rotors turned.

The assemblies are the same for the V6 and V8 so either will work but it must be from a '94 or '95. This is because the spindle was moved out about ¼". Half inch on the '96 and later Mustangs. This will cause the wheel to stick out too far and possibly cause interference problems with the wheel well lip on the fender.  If you are getting the parts from a wrecker in a complete assembly, then make sure that they include the Banjo Bolt that attaches the flexible brake line to the caliper. This will allow you to connect your existing brake lines to the SN95 caliper since the threads are different and the Fox Banjo Bolt will not thread into the SN95 caliper. Using the SN95 Banjo Bolt is the easiest way to do it rather than connecting the SN95 flexible lines to the Fox hard lines because they are different sizes and will require adapters (and the SN95 uses two different size connectors left and right side). Just use the SN95 Banjo Bolt on your flexible line for ease of installation.(Keith)

The caliper mounting points of a '87-'93 spindle won't allow you to use a rotor larger than 11". So if you ever want to upgrade the front brakes, you'll have to go to the SN95s, which don't have any rotor size limitations.(cobra3657)

M-2300-K - Forte has them for $1700. You sell the booster and MC (which you can't use) on Ebay for about $350. Be aware that the M2300 K will contain axles that you'll need to make the caliper mounts work. They will increase your rear track by 1.5". Or, you could take the $350 and buy North Cobras caliper adapters and the Motorsport conversion axles and get back to Fox axle width.(Joe Leone)

SOURCE FOR COBRA BRAKES

http://www.discbrakesrus.com/make/ford/mustang.htm

NEW COBRA BRAKES FROM FORD

Here is a parts list of what I ordered from Five Star Ford. SN95 spindles and Cobra brakes.

F4ZZ-3105-A RH front spindle $301.35
F4ZZ-3106-A LH front spindle $301.35
1R3Z-1104-AA front hubs (2 req) $ 51.77 ea.
XR3Z-1125-BC front rotors " $136.35 ea.
F4ZZ-2B120-A RH caliper $127.95
F4ZZ-2B121-A LH caliper $127.95
F4ZZ-2B292-A RH bracket $ 51.15
F4ZZ-2B293-A LH bracket $ 51.15
F5ZZ-2001-A front pads $ 78.36
F3LY-3B477-A front nuts (2 req) $ 5.46 ea.
F3DZ-1N135-A dust caps (2 req) $ 2.93 ea.
N805163-s100 caliper bolts (4 req) $ 2.43 ea.(Platt Green)

 

BRAIDED BRAKE LINES

[Olli] "To all those that have 4 wheel discs Earl's has a very nice 5 piece braided stainless steel brake hose kit.

I wanted braided lines that were DOT legal and could only find 3 piece kits. I contacted Russell and Earl's. Russell doesn't make a 5 piece kit but Earl's does.

The part # is 28B020. I ordered it through Summit. The price, only $89.99, compare that to the 3 piece Russell kit at $74.95 ( also Summit)

Most kits are 3 piece, front calipers (2) and the short rear hose that goes to the block which connects the hard lines to the drums (1), total 3

The 5 piece kit does all of the above but also replaces the stock rubber hoses that go from the hard lines to the rear calipers. (sn95)

The only way to truly benefit from braided stainless brake hose is to replace ALL the rubber hose not just some of them. Why Russell only sells a 3 piece kit for the sn95 is beyond me."

[JB] "You should note that the once 5 piece kit is now only four pieces. The t-block is no longer included. I know because I ordered it expecting five pieces and got four. Naturally I thought Summit F'd up, so I called them...Nope only four, call Earl's if you want to check with them. Called Earl's, nope only four. It is still a good deal, since it costs less then the stock lines if you are running IRS."

[Olli] "I have the Cobra R M-2300 K brake kit and the kit from Earl's worked great. Sorry to hear that they made it only a 4 piece kit now."

[TAZ] "I just got off the line with Earl's Performance Products Tech Support and here's what I've found out about these two kits.

28B020
LF 15.5" Straight in Banjo
RF 15.5" Straight in Banjo
Rears 12" 10deg Banjo

28B010
LF 14.5" 10deg Banjo
RF 14.5" 10deg Banjo
Rears 12" 10deg Banjo

Pretty close to being the same exact kits, with the exception of slightly short lines and the fronts have a slight angle on them.

BRAKE PEDAL MODIFICATION

http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010958#000000
http://www.norcal-cobras.com/projects/brakes/brake_pedal.htm

http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=012187

http://www.norcal-cobras.com/fick/Pedal_Box.htm

COBRA R BRAKES PARTS LIST

Go to <http://www.svo73mm.cjb.net/> and select the "94-01 V6/GT & Fox3 (79-93 w/SN95 Spindles) Brake Upgrades" link. It has a list of information on what you need to make a "cobra" brake package. For decent prices on calipers and rotors go to <http://www.discbrakesrus.com/>
(Stu spencer)

PROBLEM WITH FRPP M-2300-K COBRA R BRAKE KIT AXLES

I have 17"-10" rims with 6.5" backspacing on the back of my 8.8 live axle with the motorsports cobra r kit. Everything was great until the body went on. The wheels stuck out about 3/4 too far due to the longer kit's axles. After help here on forum I sold the axles and got the 5-lug drum conversion axle kit from summit $185 and some brackets from richard Oben to move the calipers to proper location. After the e-bay sale it cost me about $120 to fix...(Joe AKA Wnstwolf)

GOOD POST FOR BRAKES

http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=004346#000008

http://www.ffcobra.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=003848

 

BUILD SEQUENCE AND TIPS

58 Easy Build Steps with Hints see: http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=011686#000000

 

MASTER CYLINDER ACCESS

The is no problem with access to the MC. I can reach through the hood opening or take the louver off and access there. I used commerical velcro for the louver just in case. (San Rafael Mike)

 

BUILD TIPS

Using 1/8" drill bits instead of #30 bits: a constant aggravation. (Forrest 1)

On a side note we never use 1/8 in bits, we use #30s as they are .03 larger than an 1/8 and make for almost never having to redrill a hole.(Richard Oben)


NOT smoothing edges of aluminum panels as a first step--many small cuts as a result.

tightened the Lemans cap to the flange, drilled it and screwed it on the body. Then I found that once the flange was screwed down I could REALLY tighten the cap. Now I'll have to remove it, drill the body holes again and fill the first set of holes. (Uraeus)

Did not bend the wings on the donor fuel tank and tried to force the straps on. Does not work. (Pete N)

Check to make sure that the gas gauge works before riviting the trunk floor in.(Veloce)

Did not use the aluminum piece on the front of the transmission tunnel to line up the footboxs and floors.(Rigler)

BUILD SEQUENCE

How many of you installed the engine before the steering shaft cover on the drivers footbox?
How many of you realized this and then pulled the engine for any reason, then reinstalled, and forgot it again!
That would be me! (lighting)

I installed the all rear cockpit aluminum (the big piece) before I installed the upper trunk floor. Fortunately, I had Russ's trunk kit - so I was able to cut out the hoop and get the piece in that way. (John Hudson)

Was very careful in aligning, drilling, and clecoing all of the aluminum for the footboxes and floorboards before riviting. Everything was perfect until I tried to install the front vertical piece that ties both sides together. Lots of flexing of that piece to finally get it to fit (it actually cracked on one corner). If I had it to do over I would definitely include that vertical piece in the alignment process before doing any riviting. (David Douglas)

STARTER SOLENOID MOUNTING LOCATION

Where not to mount it. If you are using Donor EFI harness you have to mount the selonoid and the coil somewhere on the driver's side about in the area of the master cylinder. I just got my body on and discovered I made 3 mistakes in mounting items.
I mounted the starter seloniod and the Coil so they are hanging on the side of upper 3/4 inch tubing where the body sits, along the driver's side. I did the same thing with the coolant recover tank on the other side. The problem is that the hood support cylinders (if you have this option) need a place lay when the hood is closed (Duh!). I have to move all three of these items down at least 2 inches.

DRIVER FOORBOX ALUMINUM ASSEMBLY ORDER

The "book" says that after installation of the donor pedal box , the builder should seal and rivet the front driver foot-box panel...if this is done....it would make it impossible to install the rest of the driver foot-box aluminum....is this a mistake in the book (page 53 step 8) or am I misreading the instructions?

(Gordon Levy replies) Install the front, inside and bottom of the drivers foot box. Leave off the top and the outside panel until you are ready to install the body.
ERRORS IN THE FFR BUILD MANUAL

http://www.cobraforum.com/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=391;start=0

COBRA MANUAL ERRORS

1. Manual cites wrong sequence for tabs over/under each other for drivers footbox. Best recommendation is to fit it all together using clecos and working for which way fits best and keeping in mind the flow of water/rain and upward facing exterior folded tabs.

2. Manual cites installing fuel/brake lines late in build sequence. It also implies that one roll out the 25ft coil of respective tubing. If one intends to use a one piece tube from back to front, it would be much easier to fit this tube before installing floor panels, control arms, axles, etc. Do the work first with frame up on blocks so you can crawl around under it easer.

3. Manual sequence has rear cockpit panel being installed after body is on. This would make it very difficult for people putting stereos, speakers, main battery disconnects, etc in/around this panel. Numerous posts have confirmed it is ok to install right after floor panels.

 

Other members including myself have assembled more than a dozen FFRs. A simple rule of thumb about the aluminum is:

Save the radiator aluminum, the door aluminum and the far right fire wall piece until after the body is mounted. The splash panels can be drilled but I prefer to mount them after the body is on and the lights have been wired.

We still keep a couple assembly manuals around and refer to it once in while. The other day I had to hole saw a gas filler and the manuel is correct, 2 1/4 inches. I think the manuels are pretty good but they still leave a little to discover on your own.
REMOVING SILICONE SEALANT

Mike, "back in the day" (1988) I installed a high-peformance impeller in my Jet Ski. The jet pumps in those are bolted into the hull, then completely siliconed to the hull as well. I worked for hours with razor knifes and stuff trying to get the pump out. Someone suggested carburetor cleaner, which ate the silicone and the pump came right out.(SleekCraft Steve)

How many of you installed the engine before the steering shaft cover on the drivers footbox?
How many of you realized this and then pulled the engine for any reason, then reinstalled, and forgot it again!
That would be me! (lighting)

Using 1/8" drill bits instead of #30 bits: a constant aggravation. (Forrest 1)

On a side note we never use 1/8 in bits, we use #30s as they are .03 larger than an 1/8 and make for almost never having to redrill a hole.(Richard Oben)


NOT smoothing edges of aluminum panels as a first step--many small cuts as a result.

tightened the Lemans cap to the flange, drilled it and screwed it on the body. Then I found that once the flange was screwed down I could REALLY tighten the cap. Now I'll have to remove it, drill the body holes again and fill the first set of holes. (Uraeus)

Did not bend the wings on the donor fuel tank and tried to force the straps on. Does not work. (Pete N)

Check to make sure that the gas gauge works before riviting the trunk floor in.(Veloce)

Did not use the aluminum piece on the front of the transmission tunnel to line up the footboxs and floors.(Rigler)

 

RIVITING

I've been reading Carroll Smith's book, "Nut's Bolts, Fastners, and Plumbing Handbook". He devotes an entire section on rivets and riveting techniques - a subject near and dear to our hearts. Also a subject that I didn't know there was so much to know about!

Anyway, I'm reading the book and thinking about installing all these rivets in my car. There should be a distinction between structural and non-structural rivets. And it seem that the FFR design is to use non-structural rivets in a structural area. The non-structural 1/8 pop rivet has a shear strength of about 200 lbs. The structural rivet has a shear strength of about 600 lbs. If you increase in size to 3/16, the shear strength is over 1,000 lbs.

Initially, there would not be a problem. But after a few years and a few thousand miles, things would start getting loose due to metal fatigue, and the car would begin to rattle and the handeling would fade. That ratteling and clunking can drive you crazy. After a few years, you could R&R most of the rivets to tighten them up again. But who want's to do that?
So I'm thinking that I can order a couple boxes of Cherry Q 3/16 structural rivets at about $21 a box and a few #11 drill bits from McMasters-Carr. I'm not really sure what would be structural. But I'll assume that any aluminum panels attached to steel tubing would be structural. Any panal attached to another panel would not be. So I'll drill all the holes with a #11 drill bit, and set the stronger/larger rivets at 1.5 - 2.0" spacing.(boB)

Using 1/8" drill bits instead of #30 bits: a constant aggravation. (Forrest 1)

On a side note we never use 1/8 in bits, we use #30s as they are .03 larger than an 1/8 and make for almost never having to redrill a hole.(Richard Oben)

If I may suggest an inexpensive alternative to all the welding and epoxying being suggested, I just used 1/8" stainless rivets instead of the cheezy aluminum ones. I realize that the silicone does the work of bonding, but the steel rivets pulled everything together more tightly before snapping than the aluminum ones did. I was also careful to run a thin (1/8") bead of silicone right across the rivet holes, so it sealed them up as it spread across the joint area. I used GE silver colored silicone and it actually looks pretty good. If you have some cheesecloth and denatured alcohol handy, the GE stuff cleans right up when fresh. You can use the cloth and alcohol to fillet all the joints and clean up excess silicone. It cleans up better when fresh than it does dry. (Joe Leone)

RIVNUTS

My son thinks I must have stock in the Rivnut company. Every time I look at something I wonder if it would work better with a rivnut.

So far, I have used them for the trans tunnel, the shifter ring, the lower radiator panel where it mounts to the body, the rear cockpit wall to the body (all #10's). To mount the coil, vapor canistor, starter solenoid, cable clamps for larger harnesses to the 3/4" tubing the vacuum sensors/solenoids (1/4") as well as to allow me to use 3/8" shoulder bolts to hold up the sidepipe hangers (5/16")

I just don't like using the sheet metal screws.
And the transmission tunnel had me worried that the rivets were under a lot of stress. (Grock)

Rivnuts are super little gizmos. But, like all things mechanical, there are a few tricks you'll want to use. Don't over pull them, because the threads rip out pretty easily. Just before you put them in for the final time, put a little dab of JB Weld or epoxy on them. Once they are installed, the JB Weld will act like a "key" so they won't spin. Finally, before you mount whatever it is you are using these for, run a screw or tap through to straighten out any threads that distorted during the installation. (Joe Leone)

CAR COVER

I bought a " cheap " car cover from PEP BOYS that fits a miata. It is water proof, will fold small enough to fit in the upper level of the trunk. I keep it on in the garage and take it with me when rain is possible. It should fit a two hump as well as a single like i have.$ 40.00 (jack AKA OldMan)

These guys should be able to help you out. <http://www.calcarcover.com/default.asp?flash=1> They offer custom made covers specifically for a cobra and it will accomodate a dual roll bar configuration. Your selection would be for ford shelby cobra 427 w/ roll bar. Very nice covers. (Doug FFR2625)

CAR CLEANING

CALIFORNIA CAR DUSTER - You can get-em at Wal-Mart around $10.00  They are coated so don't apply any pressure just lightly dust the car or it will leave streaks. They are great and get better with time. (Orange Crush)

California Duster and Meguiar's Quik Detailer. Mothers has a good version of this too. Mist on, wipe off. Go back and buff with clean cloth as the Detailer has a small amount of glaze in it. I have never cleaned my car with water or soap. My painter, the infamous StreetRodPainter, recommended it to me and it works great (unless you have a mud-encrusted mess to work with). (Hula Master)

Me too California Duster. As far as a mister, I found Maguirer's Final Inspection glossier than Quik Detailer but.........nothing can compare to Zaino's #6 or BeadX Formula 115 available at car shows and swap meets. Here on the Right Coast I get it at Carlisle or Englishtown. But as Bill said the Zaino products have an anti-static built in and dust is a little less of a problem.(Chabel)

 

COOLING

 

FAN THERMOSTAT

My FFR's fan is set to be always on. How do I hook it up to be thermostatically controlled? I've got the factory harness and computer(EFI) and a 160 degree thermostat.(Gary )

I bought one from advanced auto for about $30 Can get a adjustable one for about $50. Pretty easy to hook up.(Scott)

I've got a Hayden adjustable switch.I think I got it from PEP boys for around $40. (Smitty)

OIL COOLER THERMOSTAT

Hi,
I have a new oil cooler thermostat that sandwhiches between the block & the filter. I can forward pictures if needed.
Mike Forte
Forte's Parts Connection
376 R Cambridge Street
Burlington, MA 01803
ph: (781) 273-9900
fax: (781) 273-9955
mike@fortesparts.com

RADIATOR OVERFLOW

Ive hooked up my (Summit) 1 liter polished aluminum overflow tank by installing it on the right side of the "X" frame. It is about half way up the "X." Ive connected the Breeze supplied overflow line from the Morsco "T" to the bottom fitting on the overflow tank. Ive run the remaining piece of line from the top tank fitting up to the top of the "F" and then back down to the bottom of the "F" as an overflow line, which is vented to the air. This is a copy of what I found on the donor's OEM plumbing. I can understand how hot fluid, under pressure can make it past the spring loaded radiator cap and into the overflow tank. But, I cant figure out how liquid from the tank can make it back into a cooled engine and get past the spring loaded radiator cap. However, it seems to do that on OEM set-ups. Help please. Eddie

As the fluid cools, it contracts, causing a vacuum in the cooling system. In the radiator cap, there is a valve that allows this vacuum to suck in coolant from the reservoir. So, basically, a cap is a device with two valves in it: The high pressure (15-16lbs) to relieve internal pressure when hot and one which allows suction of overflow during cooling down.
OVERFLOW TANK

If it's not to late to return it...you may want to try Mike Forte(he has a banner) he sells a tank that is made for a FFR.It incorporates a recirulating overflow tank with a radiator fill cap,and is made of aluminum.

 

RADIATOR AND TEE FILLER CAP PRESSURE RATINGS

The cap on the tank shouldn't be a problem. I would use a 20lb cap on the rad and a 16lb cap on the T filler.

COOLING SYSTEM
Griffin aluminum radiator with AN16 upper/lower fittings - $350
Billet water-fill "T" (AN16/AN16 ends) - $39
Meziere billet electric high-flow (52 gph) water pump w/backing plate - $395
1" NPT to -16AN fitting (water pump inlet) - $15
Straight Swivel-Seal tube end hose adapter (AN16, lower rad hose at water pump) - $25
Straight Swivel-Seal tube end hose adapter (AN16, lower rad hose at radiator) - $25
Auto-Flex -16 SSTL braided hose (lower hose, upper from rad to water-fill "T", upper from water-fill "T" to engine) - $117
45 deg Swivel-Seal tube end hose adapter (AN16, mounts on upper radiator) - $39
45 deg Swivel-Seal tube end hose adapter (AN16, upper rad hose to water-fill "T") - $39
Straight Swivel-Seal tube end hose adapter (AN16, water-fill "T" to engine) - $25

Total: $1069

DRIVE TRAIN

 

SHORT THROW SHIFTER STICK

http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/lousshortstick.html

 

NARROWED REAR

I have a narrowed 8.8 2-5/8ths rear and run 285-40 17s with compomotioves and 5 inches of backspace. You cannot narrow the rear any more than t5his or the coilover will hit the caliper which would be bad. I had to grind the 2*3 in the corner right behind your shoulder when sitting in the car. I have no rubbing at all. 17 inch tires have almost no sidewall bulge with 15s you will probably have issues. I have heard of people running 315s with the irs with frame modification (Rich Birkhan - Cobra Forum)

 I used an 1987 - 1993 rear axle. I had it narrowed 2" on each side. I used Mosier Engineering axles since they could not shorten the stock ones. I just ordered the wheels last week, so I dont have any pics. I have seen another FFR with this done. It looks great!(Jeff Hamilton - Cobra Forum)

Steve Ford had some really good detailed stuff on his site about narrowing the live axle and using the deep dish wheels. I tried his URL but its not working. Ill try again when I get home.

QUAD SHOCK PERCHES

You don't need them and can remove both but you might want to consider leaving them on just in case you ever want to upgrade and sell the axle.

Having said that, I removed the driver's side bracket to allow easier access for my battery. Instead of relocating the battery to the trunk, I moved the stock mount over about 6". However, I couldn't get the battery up there without removing the panhard bar. So, I cut off the quad shock bracket on the driver's side and can now slide the battery in above the axle from the driver's side wheelwell. Once resting on the axle I can get it onto the mounting plate and tighten it up. (Rick Williams)

 

LUBRICATION OF THROW-OUT BEARING

pulled the motor and trans to install the midplate that a blindman couldnt miss but i did. anyway i was looking at the clutch fork and throwout bearing, should i put some grease on these parts and what type? i was kinda thinking wheelbearing grease. how about on the pivoting part of the fork and the sliding part of the throwout bearing, NOT where the bearing depresses the fingers, but on the shaft and around the bearing where the fork holds it. any suggestions? thanks, vince

I have always used high temp wheel bearing or general black moly grease on both of those spots. (MOTORHEADCRM)

DIFFERENTIAL COVER

I sell an aluminum finned rear cover that has "COBRA" machined into it. Very nice and no complaints about fit.
If anyone want a picture I can e-mail it Monday.
Mike Forte
781-273-9900

TREMEC GEARBOX OIL

I do like the way the Tremec shifts with the GM Syncromesh. It is what the factory recommends. I have no experience in the Mopar oil. As for Mobil 1 and Red Line, they are great oils, but do not shift as well as the GM Syncromesh. As for Mustangs, the factory quadrant has a lot to do with shifting. Thats why I worked on the developement of my firewall adjustable quadrant kit. It releases the clutch more in the same pedal travel. (Mike Forte )

CENTERFORCE CLUTCH PROBLEM

I bought a Gold Center-force and the same problem I am having. The trans will not shift above 5000 rpm. I tryed a Richmond 6-spd than a G-Force semi clutchess 5 spd. I race both autocross and roadrace and both trans will not shift. I can get the trans out of gear but will not upshift or down shift above 5000 grand. The guys with no problems are running McLeod clutches or Hayes. Any body want a new Gold Centerforce

REAR END BALLAST

What is the purpose of the iron lump bolted to the bottom of the rear end housing? Is it needed on a FFR? Why cart all that extra weight around. Put it in the pile with the 100 lb factory sway bars!

Vibration dampner, but it's tuned to the mustang chassis, driveshaft, etc. Toss it!

DRIVESHAFT LENGTH

I measured for mine with the idea that if the amount of the driveshaft "snout" that was in the Mustang tranny, was the same on the cobra, everything would work O.K. The dimension came out to about 7.25" from u-joint center to u-joint center. That's the way most driveshaft shop measure. 3300 miles later and no problems.

DRIVESHAFT SHORTENING

The most practical way is to shorten the shaft yourself. It's really not very critical, not like welding the steering shaft like early FFR's required.

I bought a $13 pipe cutter from Harbor Freight which speeds up a nice straight cut. The tube is quite thin (maybe 3/32's") and the shoulder on the ends pops right off and self-center when re-inserted in the shortened tube. Make sure to line the joint ears turned in line (one guy on here said a shop actually turned them 90 degrees). My buddy welded it up for me for free. He happens to be a certified welder but any good welder will do. Balancing doesn't matter on such a short driveshaft. Longer unbalanced shafts can bend and start to whip which will cause a bad vibration. The amount of imbalance on this short stiff shaft will be automatically so close as to be a non-problem.

My brother-in-law recently cut a Chevy Nova shaft by wrapping typing paper around the shaft to mark a square cut. He then cut with a hacksaw. He mounted the shaft on a bullet-nosed Studebaker using all Nova V8 gear, including the front frame clip. The shaft worked fine without vibration even though it is substancially longer than the FFR. He lives 100 miles away and too much trouble to get the cutter. When I was a kid I did it both ways and never had a vibration problem.

For the diehard do-it-yourselfers, even the balance on long shafts can be done at home. Simply clamp a small weight around the tube with aviation clamps and test drive or run on stands. The vibration will always be better or worse. By moving the weight around the circumference, the best point can be found. Then fine tune the amount of weight. The correct weight will be exactly in between two high and lows with equal vibration. I haven't done this part on a car but on farm machinery only. Don't stand in the "sling" path because we observed a clamped washer fly harmlessly off once.(Wes)

For a new driveshaft Denny's is great<http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com>(Roscoe)

REAR END OIL

I've heard Amsoil rocks. At $8.50 per quart x2, it isn't all that expensive either. Plus, it has the friction modifier already in it, so you don't have to buy that separately.(Mike )

Because it's already mixed in the oil to begin with. Most all of your high end (i.e. synthetic) lubes will come with the friction modifier. Redline, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Mobil 1, etc. I have been using Redline in my rear end for quite some time now. I really liked it. I went to a local vendor and asked him if he had any, and he said all he carries now is Amsoil. I guess he read some studies where other brands weren't even close to Amsoil in performance... So, he sold me on a couple quarts! Really, I doubt I could tell a difference between any of the synthetics. I could tell a difference when I went from regular oil to synthetic, however. My MPG improved a bit! I figure it's probably paid for itself by now... (Mike)

NARROWING THE REAR

I cut my own housing and had moser make new axles They are not that expensive. If you don't want to cut the housing yourself you can usaully find someone to do that for $150.(Dennis Weinstein)

Gordon, I had mine shortened 2.5" on both sides, had 9"axle bearings and retainers installed (eliminates the "c"-clip), had disc brakes installed,(off '98 explorer), new axles from Moser 31 spline, had new posi installed and new gears set up (I had already purchsed the posi and gears) for about $1100. Youll probably have to eliminate the quad shocks, although some guys have swapped quad shock axle mounts side to side and they said that works. Right now I'm running adjustable upper arms, FFR lowers and am installing coilovers to move my shocks inboard away from my disc brakes. This will also allow me to raise the rear a little more. My wheels are Torque Thrusts, 15" with 3.5 BS. The wheel/tire fills the wheel well and looks good with the deep offset. If you need pics I can e-mail some to you. Good luck, (Bob AKA BK347)

I did 2 3/4" on each side and they turned out great, I have P S engineering wheels.(Reno)

I don't know if you can get 6" without cutting the lower control arm mount off. I did mine 4" (2 on each side) and like the look. I had it done locally.(Jeff Hamilton )

$345 Moser axles and cutting the housing..(Jeff Hamilton )

I'll be going w/PSE Halibrands - with a deeper offset in the rear (getting the axle narrowed 2" on each side).(KobraKurt)

2. Rear end dimensions are these, flange to flange:
- Fox solid 59.5"
- SN95 solid 63.5"
- T-Bird solid 63.5" (in original car setup)
- FFR standard IRS 59.5" (T-Bird in FFR setup)
- FFR Pin Drive Option 54.5" (FFR supplies shorter arms and axles, 4.5" per side compared to T-Bird stock in a T-Bird assembly)

3. The Pin Drive Option (PDO) therefore allows less wheel backspace , typically 3.5".(Larry Johnson)

REMOVING TRANSMISION

Not sure why the tranny problems but yes the tranny will come out without pulling the engine.

From the top take off the shifter including the 4 bolts that hold the shifter assembly onto the top of the tranny. That stubby handle an all comes off.

next under the call disconnect all the cables, wires and drive shaft. Drain the fluid!!! Remove the 4 bolts off the front of the tranny that hold the tranny to the bell housing. Remove the rear tranny mount. Not just unbolt it but remove it. Turn the tranny on it's side, slide to the rear and out it comes.... right on your head if you are not careful!! You can actually leave the tranny mount on and get it out but after a number of times doing this it's just a little easier with it off. (Ralf Button)

TRANNY REMOVAL

I've only done it once from under the car, so haven't yet got it down to 45 minutes.....like some guys. This removes the gear box. You can then deal with the bell housing assembly.

Remove wire connections and speedo cable
Drain the fluid
Remove the driveshaft and be ready for more fluid
remove the shift lever
remove the shifter (4 bolts...use a ratcheting wrench from below the car and then just pull it up)
Remove the tranny mount
Remove the bolts connecting to the engine.
Pull back and rotate the top towards the driver side.
Get it out.

I have convertible mounts and found that the engine stayed in place even if I removed the jack from under it. Do NOT try to take it out without removing the shifter. That's what I first tried and it doesn't work.

Grandev - Just thinking about this further. When we put in our new TKO, I also put in a new fork and bearing (and clutch - there was no good sense in leaving any money in the bank account). We forgot (OK- I forgot) to grease the face and interior of the bearing and got resultant herky jerky movement when depressing the clutch along with some clunky noises. A mechanic friend suggested that before going through the aggravation of removing the tranny from a finished car, we shoot some moly grease alongside both sides of the fork in the general direction of the bearing and shaft. I gave this little chance of working, but it did! The herky jerkies are about 95% gone now and getting better all the time. Did not hurt the clutch either as we did not spray too far forward of the fork. We used some stuff in a can that is intended for motorcycle chains. It "hardens" into a wax-like grease.

DIFFERENTIAL COVER

I sell an aluminum finned rear cover that has "COBRA" machined into it. Very nice and no complaints about fit.
If anyone want a picture I can e-mail it Monday.
Mike Forte
781-273-9900

MKII REAR END INSTALL

Was about to bolt up ther rearend when I put in the aluminium peices around it. I was planning on using the lowest bolt hole because of all the wheel hop problems (stock uppers). When using the bottom hole the bolt HAS to go from inside out, BUT if the bolt goes inside to out when the rear cockpit wall is in place the bolt cannot be removed. Has anyone else had this problem?? Should I just put them in and deal with them later?? Please help! Thanks (jake )

DRIVE SHAFT SHORTENING

Too high. Here in Houston you could have it done for $65-85 w/ new U-joints and balancing, and they have it in your hands in 1hr.

For those interested in the shop many of us in Houston have used its.

Houston Drive Train Service Inc
7959 North Loop East, Houston, TX 77028
(713) 675-6375
(713) 675-6214 (fax)

They do walk in's and have a quick turn around time. It took them less than 1hr to do mine.

MID SHIFT KIT

The Hanlon Motorsports' mid-shift kit is $299. this INCLUDES the PRO.5.0 shifter (no lever). I was BSing with Bob while he did the install on my 3550. Not a difficult install but there was a trick or two involved. It took Bob about 15-20 minutes. The install can definitely be done with the tranny in the car but with the tunnel removed. (Olli )

I'm not sure how much is would cost to add a mid-shift kit to an existing Tremec. I bought mine as part of a new TKO from Bob Hanlon of Hanlon Motorsports. Bob charged an extra couple of hundred bucks (can't remember how much but Olli would probably know) for the Pro-5.0, which I believe he has custom-made for this application. Bob then installed it as part of the $1875 price for the TKO.

I used my FFR stick. I cut it down, from the top, to a shortened quick shift length.
I had it re-threaded by a shop to mate the threads for the black leather Cobra shifter knob from Cobra Restorers. Cost for the the stick mod was $20. My advice is find the shifter knob you lilke..then do the mod on the stick. (JAM)

I just had Bob Hanlon put the mid-shift kit in my 3550 on Saturday. I spent the better part of Saturday with Bob talking cars and it turns out that we have a mutual friend or two.We talked about the shift lever. We have a few options. We could go with the shortest lever that PRO 5.0 sells (it is quite short but straight) or take a look at what Hurst has in the way of levers. When we were setting the stops on my shifter (take a look at that photo folks, the Hanlon kit INCLUDES a PRO 5.0 shifter!) we had a Hurst lever bolted up to it. That lever was very short, and slightly to the left. Just about exactly what you want. I don't have a part #. I will do some searching on the Hurst site. If I don't find it, I'll call Bob. (Olli )

Short Stick for the Aftermarket Hurst (Part #'s 52502, 52503) and Pro 5.0 Shifters (Part # 52502A) "The Short Stick for the aftermarket Hurst Competition Plus, Hurst Billet Plus and Pro 5.0 shifter reduces shifter throw by 17%. It has a bend toward the driver (left) of approximately 25 degrees and a bend toward the rear of approximately 5 degrees. It also shortens the handle considerably for better knob position. It is available to accept the stock knob and the small Hurst knob (used on the chrome Hurst handle). Available in black finish only."There's a picture of it at:Lou's Short Stick <http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/lousshortstick.html> At $47, it's a little pricey for a short piece of steel.

TREMEC INSTALLATION TIP

For those of you installing Tremec transmissions, I just talked to Joe at Factory Five and was told that the rear of the Tremec needs to be raised 5/8" to 3/4" in order to get proper drive shaft alignment. According to Joe, this applied to IRS or live axle isntallations. I hadn't seen this piece of information, so I thought it should be posted. (George)

Either way, IRS or solid you must raise the rear. It is not a drive shaft issue it is a clearance issue. The OD unit on the TKO and 3550 is further back and will hit the front of the crossmember if not raised. This is the same reason you have to trim off the GM counterweight flange, clearance. Hope this helps clarify. Cheers (Richard.)

ELECTRICAL

 

GROUNDING THE STARTER

Just an idea: did you paint the block, bell housing and starter? If you did, perhaps the starter is not actually grounded to the engine. (Paul Burchett)

FUEL PUMP RELAY

Taz, you should check the fuel pump relay. I was getting 6 volts to the pump and after talking to my wiring diet guy, Rob, we figured out that the relay was faulty. The relay is located on the harness that's at the top of the footbox. There are 2 large slots in the plug that the relay plugs into. If you take a small piece of wire and jumper these 2, you should hear the pump whir.

GROUNDS

Three words, Grounds, Grounds, Grounds
Make sure you have hooked up every ground you can find. Even if it's just temporary and not in its permanent location. Hook it up. The most important one is for the EEC. It looks like an inline fuse. Little black socket that has a squeeze ring on it. Should be over near the starter solenoid. The engine will crank but not much else happens without that ground. Get that heavy ground over to the block. That flat woven one on the back of the head's not enough.
Go to the basics first before you tear everything apart: fuse check, ground check. (Donald Rogus)

BATTERY MASTER SWITCH SCREWS UP THE COMPUTER WHEN OFF

Wire the master switch in line on the pos side of the battery. For the spec racers we put the switch on the rear bulkheads between the seats. On street cars we mount it on the rear bulkhead close to the floor between the drivers seat and the tunnel. If you are using injection, only turn it off when you have to. When ever you turn it off it will scramble the computer. The is a master switch made with a constant power terminal for EFI engines. This terminal would be for computer power.

10k Ohm RESISTOR AT PURGE CANISTER SOLENOID

You'll need to wire in a 10k Ohm resister where the purge cannister solenoid used to go. Otherwise, when the computer looks for it periodically to purge the cannister, it'll collect computer faults.(Donald Rogus)

ROGER STEIN - WIRING HARNESES DIET

MSTINE@SURFSIDE.NET and
his phone is:
949-275-5702
good Luck! Roger's the best!

 

LUCAS SWITCHES

 

I swapped out the FFR supplied toggles w/ Lucas (from Finish Line). I went w/ Finish Lines wiper motor switch (low/high/park) for the wipers. Two position switch for the manual fan override, and three position switch (off/on/on) for the heater which has two speeds (low/high). The Lucas switches are a bit more robust than the FFR supplied ones and all my switches and bezels look the same and are period correct.

ARM MISSLE SWITCHES

Summit SUM-G3902 6 amp $19.95

REAR HARNESS DIET

Bob,
You will need the fuel pump / fuel level sender/ brake / turn signal / running lamp and intertia switch wires. You can tie the liscence plate lamp into the brown running lamp wire.
Remove the rest.

ACCESSORY DIET GALLERY

http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010069#000000

BATTERY MASTER SWITCH SCREWS UP THE COMPUTER WHEN OFF

Wire the master switch in line on the pos side of the battery. For the spec racers we put the switch on the rear bulkheads between the seats. On street cars we mount it on the rear bulkhead close to the floor between the drivers seat and the tunnel. If you are using injection, only turn it off when you have to. When ever you turn it off it will scramble the computer. The is a master switch made with a constant power terminal for EFI engines. This terminal would be for computer power.

STARTER SOLENOID MOUNTING LOCATION

Where not to mount it. If you are using Donor EFI harness you have to mount the selonoid and the coil somewhere on the driver's side about in the area of the master cylinder. I just got my body on and discovered I made 3 mistakes in mounting items.
I mounted the starter seloniod and the Coil so they are hanging on the side of upper 3/4 inch tubing where the body sits, along the driver's side. I did the same thing with the coolant recover tank on the other side. The problem is that the hood support cylinders (if you have this option) need a place lay when the hood is closed (Duh!). I have to move all three of these items down at least 2 inches.

HONDA S2000 STARTER BUTTON

Call Westbroad honda and ask for Chris.
Tell you saw the add in motor trend; he'll sell you the botton for about $31.00 + shipping.
The connector is very tiny. After much consulting I found out that the pin size is the same as a computer sound card connector. Any good computor store about $2.00. You do have to move the pins in the sound connector. You only use 1,2,and 3. The std sound card uses 1,2 & 4

BATTERY CUT OFF SWITCH TERMINAL PROTECTION

I am installing my battery cutoff on the rear bulkhead with the terminals protruding into the trunk. My B&B has a "shelf" where the terminals stick into. Having a 2 guage, unfused terminal back there open to the world kind of bothered me. When ordering my weatherpak connectors, I saw Waytek part number 23507. It is a rubber boot that goes on the end of the cable and fits nicely over the terminal. I have not done the final install, but a rough test indicates that it will fit snugly over the nuts on the terminal and be held in place by the cable.  (Tom )

McMasterCarr
Style "C" Part No: 69875K4
$1.73 each

<http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/108/html/0750.html>

BoatUS and West Marine sell all of the same thing if there is one in your area.

HEADLIGHT SWITCH AND 4-WAY FLASHERS

Bob, I used a GM, push-pull type headlight switch. It was $25 from Watson's Streetworks, p/n AA-HLS. It has a rheostat to dim the instrument lighting and a switch to control the courtesy light I installed in each footbox. The Mustang courtesy light circuit wiring requires a couple of snips and splices to work with the GM switch, but it's no big deal. Watson's web site is: www.watsons-streetworks.com <http://www.watsons-streetworks.com>http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/wiring_accessories.html


The Mustang hazard switch is basically a 3PDT switch. I replaced it with a 3PDT relay from MSC Industrial Supply, p/n 54038534. The relay can be controlled with any SPST switch. MSC's web site is: www.mscdirect.com <http://www.mscdirect.com>
If you decide to use either one of these methods, I'll be happy to decribe what needs done to rewire. I don't have the ability to post my schematics.(Paul Burchett)

Bwana50, I'll try. The colors I give are for an '89 harness.
First the control circuit. I spliced into the R/W wire that supplies power to the hazard flasher from fuse #1. From there I was able to run power to one side of my SPST switch. The other side of the SPST switch goes to one side of the coil on the relay. The other side of the relay coil hooks to ground. I also hooked a EMF diode between the two wires that I ran to the relay coil. This prevents arcing and damage to the switch due to the collapse of the coil field when the switch is turned off. (A more detailed explanation is a post of it's own) The diode should be installed with the negative end (end with the stripe around it) attached to the wire that supplies power to the relay coil. The other end attaches to the coil ground wire.
The 3PDT relay has 3 power input terminals and 6 possible power output terminals. (this is not including the coil terminals) Three of the outputs are "hot" when the relay is energized (coil is powered). The other three are "hot" when the relay is relaxed. (does that make sense?) Attach the LB wire from the Mustang hazard switch to one of the power inputs. Put the O/Y wire from the Mustang switch on the output terminal that will connect to the LB wire when the relay is relaxed. Next, attach the W/R wire from the donor switch to both of the remaining power input terminals. Attach the O/LB and W/LB wires to one of the output terminals that will receive power from the W/R wire when the relay is energized. Attach the LG/O and the LG/W wires to the other output terminal that will receive power from the W/R wire when the relay is energized.
A 3PDT relay has a total 11 terminals on it. In this application you should have 3 unused terminals.
Any questions???? Feel free to ask. It is hard to describe an electrical circuit in text. If this is completely unclear, perhaps I can get a friend to scan my schematic onto the forum.(Paul Burchett)

JOHN HUDSON'S ALTERNATOR

Do you really need a 3G?

This a chrome, GM style, 1 wire alternator from Summit. It only puts out 63 amps, but in 3,000 miles it has worked fine - I don't have a lot of "accessories". 351W with March Pulleys. Cost is $100, part # SUM-G1666

WIRING HARNESS DIET

JD,
From Rhode Island, I would send it to Rob Weatherbie in PA. He quoted me $375 to do a complete diet. Just box up what you have and include a list of what your set up is and what accessories you want. He'll go from there. Check out his site here Rob Weatherbie <http://www.speedyasscars.com/index.html>

Not trying to take anything away from Roger. But being on the Right Coast, it's more cost efficient to send it to Rob. Just my $02 worth.

MSD WIRE ROUTING

Just one thought, don't run ANY MSD wires in the same wire loom as the EFI harness.

BATTERY CUT OFF SWITCH

If something like your ammeter shorts to the frame somehow, do you really want to be climbing under the rear of the car to disconnect the battery? (happened to me...was lucky enough to wiggle the right wire and stop the short)

Here are ways to wire the switch and what it will do for you:

1: Between battery neg and chassis ground. Turning off isolates your battery completely from the car. When running, turning it off won't shut the car down because the alternator still has quite a good ground and the + connected to the harness.

2: Between battery and all + connections. Turning this off isolates your battery from the car. Shutting it off when the car is running will not shut off the car because the alternator + is still connected to the car.

3: Between battery and all + connections **except alternator, which goes directly to battery**. When shut off, disconnects all + voltages from the car, shutting down the engine no matter what. BUT...you need to be sure to have the fuse links in the lineS between the battery and the alternator. (this is how I've wired mine)

Putting in a small fuse to keep the computer alive should not allow any fire issues. The size of the fuse will determine this.

Mike Forte had a pile of the cutoff switches, just like I have. I wouldn't be without it now. (jack)

If you want to keep your computer memory alive just wire in a small buss fuse or 5A circuit breaker over the disconnect switch.

A short (or some idiot trying to star the car) will pop the fuse. Then everything's dead.

You replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker and move on.

FWIW the "Flaming River" cut offs will handle a lot more juice than the standard "red flag" switch. All depends on what you're running.

If you're running paint burner headlamps, a big electric fan and a big stereo you might want the bigger switch.

Waytek wire also sells really sweet gigantimous fuses, from 100A to 250A.(Ozona)

I have my cut-off switch in the negative side, and my engine also continues to run - due to the feedback through the alternator. Painless makes a relay kit to prevent this, and someday I may install it.

My main concern is that the starter and alternator (since it is connected at the starter relay) is always 'hot'. I have a carbed car with the painless wiring, and do not have any kind of fusible link in this circuit. WaytekWire sells these, which I plant to install over the winter:


The first one is an automatic reset (100 amp $16), the second one is a manual reset with a trip push button (100 amp $26) I'm thinking the auto reset which I could mount pretty close to the battery.

DESCRIPTION: "Plastic housing approved for engine compartment or marine bilge area applications. Typically used for auxiliary and accessory circuits on trucks, buses, recreational vehicles, marine and construction equipment. Single pole thermal type breakers are rated up to 30 volts DC maximum. Operating temperature of -25°F to 180°F. 1/4-28 studs and surface mount style have rubber boots for insulating the ends."

They have them from 50 to 150 amp. Waytekwire.com

Here is a link to a PDF File <http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/catalog/214_55.PDF> (John Hudson)

As another posted, if you are putting this in a race car, it will not pass tech if it isn't on the positive side.

Also please keep in mind why you have it in your race car. It is so that you or a track worker can shut off all of the electrics in a car involved in an accident. This is why it should be in a visible place that can be reached by both you and someone outside of the vehicle and it should be placarded for visibility. (Leonard)

Looks like a good opportunity to clear up what Breeze offers here. Both our kits were developed for rear mounted applications and assume use of the FFR supplied positive cable and crimp terminals. We include the remote termials, Keep alive memory fused jumper, 2 gauge negative cable and associated crimp terminals and mounting hardware, Two 3/8" flange head thread cutting screws for attaching the ground wires (engine to frame, battery negative cable/remote terminal to frame, and either the red-flag removeable Key type switch (with spare key) or the Die-Cast Cole Hersee switch. We also include a sketch of how to wire it all up (we say switch in positive cable but do not believe there is any functional electrical difference which side of the battery gets disconnected). Both kits are $85.(Mark Reynolds - Breeze)

I've done this a time or two...
Your alternator wire goes directly to the positive post of the battery. (This IS the best for the battery.) The return wire can go to any NHRA approved cut off switch. You do not need to run a seperate or different cut-off if the alt wire is feeding the battery directly. When you throw the switch, everything is dead. Your supply wire from the switch can go directly to your starter selenoid or terminal mount for accessories.
If you simply run the alternator wire to the accessories or selenoid directly, the battery will remain upstream and will never get the charge the alternator was meant to supply. This is simply why when some turn off the switch, the car still keeps on running.
If you should decide to go to the track and the tech wants you to start the car, he's going to check the switch. The switch must also be in a conspicuous place on the rear of the car while clearly marked as to which direction is OFF. If you mount it inside the car, the tech will not (generally) pass it. The safety crew needs exterior access to turn off your fuel pump and associated wiring/motor.
I'll be using a 3a fuse which is already part of my dash harness to keep ecm memory. This is wired directly to the battery. She'll pop if somebody tries anything.(Keith)

FAN THERMOSTAT

My FFR's fan is set to be always on. How do I hook it up to be thermostatically controlled? I've got the factory harness and computer(EFI) and a 160 degree thermostat.(Gary )

I bought one from advanced auto for about $30 Can get a adjustable one for about $50. Pretty easy to hook up.(Scott)

I've got a Hayden adjustable switch.I think I got it from PEP boys for around $40. (Smitty)

WIRING DIAGRAMS FOR STRIPPING EFI HARNESS

http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=012101

http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=012489

AUTOMETER TRI ALERT

I just installed the Auto Meter Tri-Alert warning system in the car yesterday. Aside from having to pull the steering column and dash, it went in like a breeze and works perfectly. Big red light on the dash hooked in to all three gauges. Water and oil set at 220 deg and the oil pressure at 30 pounds. (Roscoe)

I'm using the Autometer Pro-Lite Warning Light, P/N 3240 if I'm not mistaken. Jeg's P/N 105-3240. Cost $28.99.(Hank Dondero)

EMERGENCY BRAKE

E-BRAKE MODIFICATION FOR REAR DISK BRAKES

http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=013527

FIERO E-BRAKE

If using the Fiero setup, as I did, you'll need 1 Fiero cable for the right side and 1 M2809 Ford cable for the left. I just happen to have 1 Ford cable which you are welcome to. I'm going over to Merrimack tomorrow to help a few hours with badcaiman's build. I can bring it if you're going over there.  I bought the Fiero boot when I bought the rest of the stuff. If you want I'll send it to you so you can use it as a pattern. I haven't installed my carpets yet, but I did install everything else. Your picture shows the handle about 4 inches further to the rear than mine is, but I'm using FFR's Vintage Racer seats. Here's a picture of Wade Chamberlain's setup, which is what I used as a guide:(Joe Leone)

EMERGENCY BRAKE CABLE ROUTE

Can anyone help me with some feedback here please.
I routed the 2 emergency brake cables according to the manual however they are going to rub along the front part of the rear coil springs. Anyone else run into this?

We made a set of small brackets that rivet on the frame and keep it away from the spring. They work great.
When I was originally posting this I thought I might have been routing them in the wrong place.

ENGINE

 

TIP ON REMOVEING THE DISTRIBUTOR

Did you mark the base of the distributor before you removed from donor....and at Top Dead Center? Was it at TDC , when you reinstalled?

 

SEALING HEAD STUDS

From memory, I was always told to use Permetex (Hell, I can't even spell it!) #2 on Ford head bolts. Have you ever used the junk before? It looks like dark, loose Dog Squirt and second off who designed a Damn engine block that the bolts have to be sealed? OK back to the problem... When I built the engine in 2335 I used the Doggie Doo #2 on the head bolts and didn't have any problems but where I had a leak was at the rear of the intake where it seals to the block. Be sure and Put double silicone sealer there or the Sumbitsh will LEAK Oil!  Looks like to be the bolts leaked to me. Also don't use synthetic oils in it, it's a FORD!(Mcathcart)

 

EXPLORER FUEL RAILS

Another FFR owner (FFR1222K here on the forum) brought up the good idea of swapping out the Mustang fuel rail (exits out the front of the engine) with an Explorer fuel rail (exits out the back of the engine). This way, I can not only hide the fuel lines behind the engine (instead of snaking them all around the engine compartment) but I can also run the lines down the transmission tunnel straight into the engine with little to no bends in the line.(Drew)

Yes, the Explorer fuel rails will add another obstacle but Ron Morris says he uses the Explorer rails all the time on the older 5.0/Mustang setups and apparently it is a direct swap.

 

EGR ELIMINATOR PLATE

http://www.uprproducts.com/shopping/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=77  (UPR Products)

 

OIL PRESSURE GUAGE

 

I've also seen where people use teflon tape on the oil pressure fitting. It needs to ground on some units so if you used it, take it off and retry. (Mike)

 

HEAD TORQUING STORIES

 

http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=013843

DISTRIBUTER GEAR FAILURE

http://www.cobralads.com/butcher63.html (Excellant discussion on why distributer gears fail)

OIL PUMP

I'll never figure it out. Everyone buys a High Volume pump when a High Pressure pump is all thats needed. I sell mostly stock or high pressure and they work best. When you think of the power it takes to pump more volume. It only has so many places to go, the rest goes into bypass back into the sump. That means you lose HP, heat and aerate the oil. All of that and Fords have a problem with distributor gears. It is a MUST to use the correct gear. You must put a lubricant on the gears before startup. I stock cams, gears, lifters, pump, drive rod, pan, pickup & one piece gasket. If you have any questions please call me.
Mike Forte
781-273-9900
cell 781-248-8946

YES, You have made the classic cobra builders mistake of putting a CAST iron dist gear on a STEEL ROLLER CAM. THE E303 requires a STEEL dist gear, and all of you guys should remove and throw out completely your high volume oil pumps. They are just not needed and will actually cause more problems than they are worth. STOCK IS BEST. I have factory Roller motors running right now with over 200K miles on them and they have NEVER been apart. You guys are blowing up rebuilds like they were old chewing gum!!!! This must stop. STEVE SIEGEL

O2 SENSORS

I am certainly not an expert on this, but I did have a pretty interesting experience.

I read an article that talked about the 'new' Bosch O2 sensors. The article said they were very good. I decided to put them in my Cobra during the build. When it came time to start the engine, I had significant starting troubles, and the car ran very rich. I spent some time debugging EFI things, and did find a bad BAP sensor. However, the car still started poorly and ran terribly rich (lots of black smoke, backfires, smell of gasoline). Just to try something different I went back to the standard Ford O2 sensors from the donor. Presto - all my starting/rich problems disappeared. It has been 6 months now, and the car has run very well ever since I put the donor sensors back in.

If you want a pair of very lightly used Bosch sensors, I will give you a great price!!

QUICK RELEASE OIL DRAIN PLUG

I have one of the below quick release drain setups. It is a pleasure to change and you never have to unscrew a bolt again. Once installed you just take the drain hose and snap it on the pan fitting.
I got mine from Jegs.

Aeroquip's Quick-Drain Oil Pan Coupling

Easy, Quick, Clean Way to Change Your Oil.
No more oil on your hands, floor, or cross members. You simply remove your original drain plug and replace it with the Quick-Drain Coupling, that's it! To drain oil, simply remove the supplied protective cap and push the female coupling (P/N 023-FCM3117 which has a drain hose attachment) onto the male coupling and oil is flowing.
SHRAEDER VALVE

I used the shraeder valve to relieve my fuel pressure system for my manifold swap. Now the valve leaks under pressure. I have gone to every parts store for a replacement, but they all say it is a factory part

It's the same type of valve that keeps the air in your tires.

The first thing to try is opening it (Press it in the same way you pressed it to relieve the pressure.) and letting it re-seat itself. The valve may not have seated properly when you released the the pressure the first time.

If that fails to stop the problem, go to any bike shop and ask for a cheap Schrader tool and a new valve. (I suspect that AutoZone et al will also have them in the tire repair section.) The valve screws out and the new one screws in. (A 2-min job that is <$5.)

Not to be the one to say the sky is falling, you should at least be aware that the tire valve and the fuel valve may not have the same rubber in the seat. There could be fuel compatibility issues down the road.

OR,
you could just get a fuel pressure guage to mount permanently off the valve port. No more worry about leaks, valve rubber, etc.

MUFFELERS

To get through DE inspection I need to get Quiet. I have the 3 disc C.C. inserts in, but it is not even close to passing. HELP!!!!!!!

I installed the cats with the CC inserts to get the noise level down. My CC inserts are in the tail of the side exhaust. The cat's really do help with the noise level too!!!

Limit the throttle travel for the inspection. Prevent it from reving up so that it can't go over the db limit. Then remove the limit.

I found them. In case someone else searches, here's a link <http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=%2Fsection%2Easp%3Fd%3D8%26s%3D127>

I use the three disc setup but you must install them in the J pipes before the side pipes. I just notched the third disc a little then welded them in. In fact that is the plan on ALL spec cars that will be running in teh Northeast FFROG spec series. Gary

DISTRIBUTER GEAR MATERIAL

Roller Cams are steel. They need steel or Bronze Dist. Gears.

Flat tappet cams are generally iron. They need iron or bronze.

The bronze gears will wear out fairly quickly.

Do not use an iron gear on a steel cam and visa versa.

HEADER GASKET RECOMMENDATION

Summit part number: EAR-29D03A. $35.00. The best gaskets I have used. Get Stage 8 header bolts while you are at it.

After fighting w/ the header gaskets on my FFR 4x4 headers (one of their first sets ), the only header gaskets I'll ever buy again are Earl's. They're pricey at about $32, but I'm a believer now!

HEAD GASKET RECCOMMENDATION

We always use Fel Pro with the stainless compression ring and depending on cu. in. we run 13.5:1 to 15.5:1 at near 800 HP. Like Andy said, we also silicone the water passages, studs, and washers or else aluminum motors WILL LEAK coolant until they reach temp. Iron blocks don't move as much as aluminum so the silicone is more of a precaution than a necessity but a very good idea none the less. Use sparingly for the reasons Excaliber stated.

Be aware when mocking up that proper squish clearance is important to making max power as well as being important to resistance to detonation. Increasing the squish to much more than .040" (for steel rods) by using a thicker head gasket could make the engine more likely to detonate.

(The bead of silicon around the pump expanded out when the pump was bolted down tight, thus "squishing" out some residual amount around the inside edges. Months later little ridges of the residual silicon finally broke free and worked it's way into some water passages in the head gasket area. Thus causing just enough blockage to cause a very difficult to diagnose over heating problem!

I for one will use slilicon VERY sparingly from now on, just to "be sure". )

[I now use either Fel Pro or Mr Gasket with the steel ring. No sealer is necessary, just put them on a clean surface. The only thing you can use on it is a bit of adhesive.

If you want a set of Milodon's I've got them hanging on the wall. Roscoe]

REAR MAIN SEAL LEAK

Have you got a Positive Crankcase Vent system set up on the car engine.

If your engine is building up positive pressure, it WILL leak at every possible opening.

Just a thought. If you have the stock set up, check the PCV valve, the PCV hose and what ever the hose attaches to on the other end. Make sure its all open.(earl)

When you installed it, did you "tap" it in? I've heard of having the spring in the seal become dislodged from vigorous tapping. They say to pack the back of the seal with grease to keep this from happening.(Forrest)

I have found that using RTV sealer on the outside edge of the rear main seal helps a ton. It also helps the seal slide into place easier during instalation. I have not had any more leaks since I started using this method.

Also, for the front of the engine, put some RTV sealer on harmonic balancer surface where it mates to the crank. My fluid damper always seemed to leak before I started using this method.(Steve Knapp)

PULLING THE ENGINE WITH THE BODY ON

Take Bob's advice on pulling from the side. I have had my motor in and out to many time to care to count, with the body on. Slide the tranny back, pull the motor, and then pull the tranny.(Hank FFR 1776-II )

OIL PAN

Gordon Levy's oil pan - Check out this thread:
Gordon's Oil Pan <http://www.cobraforum.com/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=6046;start=0>

DUAL OIL FILTERS

Another advantage is that if need to replace the single remote bracket, for some reason you can get a dual one for about the same amount money

I got this one from Summit for $25 (TRD-1030). The bracket uses two filters in parallel - the oil enters the bracket and can goes to both of the filters at the same time.

REMOTE OIL FILTER

www.cmfilters.com <http://www.cmfilters.com>

LIFTER PRELOAD

The way to adjust them is to loosen them until you get a little slop. Tighten until you feel no clearance betwwen the push rod and rocker. Then tighten a 1/4 turn. There is some compression in the lifter when not running. It's hard to feel and can be easy to over tighten these. Please call me if you have more question or are confused by this answer.

DON'T USE AN OIL COOLER

We don't use oil coolers as you think of them. I don't like the one that sits out in the front being hit by anything that flys up on it. What we use is a heat exchanger. This unit is mounted in the engine compartment and the lower radiator hose runs through it. On the top are the oil lines and a series of coils that the oil runs through. The coolent heats up the oil to operating temp then keeps it cool under hard driving conditions. No the oil doesn't heat the coolent up. With using the air type cooler in the front, under normal street driving the oil doesn't reach operating temp. This isn't very good for the engine.

PAINTING ENGINE BLOCK UNDER INTAKE MANIFOLD

It really isn't necessary to paint the valley pan. If you do, don't use spray paint. Over time it will flake off and go into the engine. We have used a product called glicktal. It is brush on and won't come off.

STANDARD ROTATION WATER PUMP

And then the 1984 Crown Vic Water Pump that rotates opposite a 87-96 5.0 by Cobra Earl:

LUBRICATION OF THROWOUT BEARING

pulled the motor and trans to install the midplate that a blindman couldnt miss but i did. anyway i was looking at the clutch fork and throwout bearing, should i put some grease on these parts and what type? i was kinda thinking wheelbearing grease. how about on the pivoting part of the fork and the sliding part of the throwout bearing, NOT where the bearing depresses the fingers, but on the shaft and around the bearing where the fork holds it. any suggestions? thanks, vince

I have always used high temp wheel bearing or general black moly grease on both of those spots. (MOTORHEADCRM)

OIL COOLER THERMOSTAT
I have a new oil cooler thermostat that sandwhiches between the block & the filter. I can forward pictures if needed.(Mike Forte)

SPARK PLUG GAP

I hate to disagree with the chart from MSD. My experience is not as straight forward as their chart. Compression ratio is not a great basis to go by. Cylinder pressure / horse power numbers are more real. Power adders like NOS, turbo or supercharger all change the spark plug setting. The larger amount of energy a MSD unit provides can easily cause a misfire at peak torque because of to large of a gap. Also the wires will deteriorate faster with the larger gap. I have always told customers to gap their plugs no larger than .040". On engines with power adders no larger than .035". If anyone has any questions, please feel free to call me.
Mike Forte

HEAD TORQUE SPECS

AFR tech recommends the following:

2) HEAD BOLT TORQUE:
Apply moly-oil mixture to washers, and area around head bolt to prevent galling and improper torque readings. Torque to 70ft/lbs. for 7/16" bolts or studs (289 or 302) or 100ft/lbs. for 1/2" bolts or studs (351W) in three or four steps following the factory tightening sequence. Then tighten the long (upper) head bolts or studs 80ft/lbs. (7/16") or 110 ft/lbs. (1/2"). A re-torque is recommended after initial start-up and cool down (allow 2-3 hours for cooling). Sealer should be applied to all head bolts or studs that enter into the blocks water-jacketing system. Permatex is a good general-purpose sealer.
TORQUING:
We suggest not using a Torque Wrench on intake and exhaust manifold bolts, accessory bolts,or spark plugs, as inaccurate torque wrench values can easily strip the smaller threads. Just snug up hand tight with a wrench only.

Other torque specs at<http://performanceunlimited.com/documents/torqueguide.html>Roscoe

From the AFR tech site: (see intake section)

Installation Instructions
Small Block Ford Aluminum Heads

ATTN: PLEASE READ THROUGH ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE ATTEMPTING
CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION.

VALVE SPRINGS :
IT IS THE CUSTOMERS RESPONSIBILITY TO CHECK AND MAKE SURE THAT SPRING PRESSURES ARE CORRECT FOR HIS CAM.
VALVE CLEARANCE GUIDE:
INTAKE AND EXHAUST GUIDE CLEARANCE ARE .00125, ON SOME SEVERE APPLICATIONSWITH HEAVY NITROUS, MARINE OR BLOWER USAGE LOOSER GUIDES MIGHT BE REQUIRED.
IMPORTANT:
APPLY ANTI-SEIZE TO ALL BOLTS AND SPARKS PLUGS TO ENSURE A LONG THREAD LIFE.
*WARNING*
PISTON DOME TO CYLINDER HEAD CLEARANCE MUST BE CHECKED PRIOR TO FINAL ASSEMBLY OF ENGINE.
*WARNING*
ROCKER STUDS ARE INSTALLED FOR SHIPPING PURPOSES ONLY! THESE STUDS MUST BE SEALED AND TORQUED TO 60 FT/LB. BEFORE RUNNING THE ENGINE.
IMPORTANT:
COMPRESSION RATIO AND PISTON TO VALVE CLEARANCE MUST BE CHECKED BEFORE ASSEMBLY. PART NUMBERS #1420, #1422, #1490 & #1492 WITH 2.020 VALVES USUALLY WILL NOT FIT A PISTON WITHOUT VALVE NOTCHES HAVING PROPER RELIEFS. PART #1450 & 1451 WITH 2.080 VALVES MIGHT EXPERIENCE THE SAME ISSUES.
NOTE: 1986 5.0L MUST HAVE PISTONS NOTCHED FOR CLEARANCE.
COOLANT:
It is important to maintain a 50/50 mix of antifreeze in the cooling system to prevent corrosion of aluminum heads. Do not use tap water use distilled water, most supermarkets have purified or distilled water. Check labeling to verify purified though deionization.

TORQUING:
We suggest NOT using a torque wrench on intake and exhaust manifold bolts. Just snug up hand tight with a wrench only.

VALVE SEATS:
Both intake and exhaust valve seats are heat-treated and compatible with unleaded fuels.
ACCESSORIES:
Although AFR street cylinder heads will accept OEM components rocker arms, valve covers, intake manifold, 7/16" bolts for 165cc head and 1/2" for 185cc & 205cc & 225cc head, we highly recommend that premium quality hardware be used with your new heads.
HEAD GASKETS:
Use Fel-Pro #1011-1 for years 1962 - 82 for 1983 - 1995 Fel-Pro #1011-2. For high compression (12:1 and above) nitrous or forced induction, use Fel-Pro #1006 Locwire. NOTE: 1006 Locwire gasket will require modification of the head deck surface by AFR or a competent machine shop to Fel-Pro specifications, also put a small amount of silicone around water cross-over in head deck when using 1006 gasket.
INTAKE GASKETS:
Important: Do not port match you intake manifold to these below gaskets, as they do not exactly fit AFR heads. Use Fel-Pro #1250 on either the 165cc or 185cc intake runner head. For the 205cc use Fel-Pro #1262. The 225cc runner head will require the Fel-Pro 1262R. A small amount of silicone is recommended around the water ports and the intake port.
EXHAUST GASKETS:
Any header or manifold designed for original equipment heads will fit the AFR 165cc or 185cc street cylinder heads, use Fel-Pro #1415 exhaust gasket. For the 205cc use Fel-Pro #1487 exhaust gasket.
VALVE COVER GASKET:
Use Fel-Pro #1645 ¼ thick cork-lam with steel core.
HEAD BOLTS or STUDS:
High quality head studs or head bolts with hardened washers must be used to prevent galling of the aluminum head. Recommended head bolts are ARP #154-3701 for engines with 7/16" head bolt holes (289 and 302 CI). Engines with 1/2" head bolts holes (351-w and 302 CI SVO) should use ARP # 154-3603. For maximum head gasket-clamping AFR recommends head stud kits. AFR part #1420, #1422, #1450, #1451, and #1492 heads come with head bolt hole drilled to 1/2". If installing on a 289-302 block with 7/16 threads, a head bolt reducer bushing 1/2 to 7/16 must be used, AFR part #6324.
HEAD BOLT TORQUE:
Apply moly-oil mixture to washers, and area around head bolt to prevent galling and improper torque readings. Torque to 70 ft/lbs. for 7/16" bolts or studs (289 or 302) or 100 ft/lbs. for 1/2" bolts or studs (351W) in three or four steps following the factory tightening sequence. Then tighten the long (upper) head bolts or studs to 80 ft/lbs. (7/16") or 110 ft/lbs. (1/2"). A re-torque is recommended after initial start-up and cool down (allow 2 - 3 hours for cooling). Sealer should be applied to all head bolts or studs that enter into the blocks water-jacketing system. Permatex is a good general-purpose sealer.
SPARK PLUGS:
Use 14mm x 3/4" reach gasketed spark plugs, no tapered seat plugs. Street application use Autolite 3924, for 205cc & 225cc race head use Autolite 3922, or equivalent. Plug selection is of course dictated by many factors including RPM level, compression ratio, and fuel type. Forced induction or nitrous applications usually require 1 to 2 heat ranges colder. Spark plug gap should be determined by the ignition manufacturer.
HYDRAULIC LIFTER PRE-LOAD:
With part #'s 1400, 1402, 1420, & 1422 cylinder heads hydraulic lifter pre-load is easily adjustable due to the stud/guide plate design. Harden heat treated chrome moly pushrods are required with guideplate style heads. Rocker arm studs should be torqued to 60 ft./lbs. they are not torqued from AFR, torque pedestal rocker arms to stock recommendation. On part #'s 1472, and 1492 adjustments to lifter pre-load with non-adjustable pedestal bolt down rocker arms cam only be made with shims as sold by Ford SVO HM-6529-A302 or Crane #99170-1. AFR recommends 1/4 - 1/2 turn pre-load for hydraulic cams. Rocker arm geometry should be checked making sure that the contact point of the roller or pad on a stock rocker remains centered on the valve tip and does not roll off the edge. Visual inspection of the rockers, valve springs, retainers, and pushrods should be made to ensure that none of the components come into contact with each other. If problems with valve train exist, simple changes such as pushrod length may have to be made. If pushrod to cylinder head contact is evident loosen rocker stud and re-align guideplate as needed.
ALTERNATOR BRACKET:
Some years require the supplied 5/8-11-7/16-14 reducer to be installed into air pump thread in order to properly mount the alternator. (Roscoe)

302 OIL PAN

Call Gordon Levy at Levy Racing.  His pan is designed for the FFR. It does not hang below the frame, has an 8 qt. capacity, and the cost is almost the same ($350) as the Moroso pan. Has all the goodies - trap doors, windage tray, etc.. <http://www.levyracing.com/main.html>

ARMANDO'S ROAD RACE OIL PAN

Here's some pictures of Armando's pan that I'm using. Its a GT40 pan. 6 1/2" deep which means its about 1" above the framerails. Holds 8 qts. and is AWESOME. Combined with my Canton Accumulator its as good as it gets without going drysump. It also comes with a windage tray not shown in pictures.

I'll second Armondo's pan. I needed more clearance than Gordon's pan offered (which was great otherwise) and this was the only really low profile one I could find. It's a copy of the pan AVIAD sells for a much higher price, and was used on the GT-40s, and I think on the Coupes. (not sure on that) Very nice workmanship on this piece. Note that it's a tight fit on the early frames, but any frame made after the big block option became available should be fine.

I think there were some recent posts on Armando -- here's the web site. Might be worth checking out. Let us know what you find out<http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/1624/>(Part no. 406 at $399) or (Part no. 407 at $420 - GT40 pan 1" less high)

EMISSIONS REMOVAL

<http://www.sisalnet.com/ffr/emissions.htm>

 

IGNITION WIRES

MSD 31329 8.5mm Superconductor

They're awesome wires. The plug boots stay exactly where you bend them. The general concensus is the FMS wires suck.

Remember! When using an MSD Ing. Do not use solid core wires!(Whalen)

here is some info on wires <http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/main.htm>(Alain)

For a SBF the MSD wires are great since they are easy to replace if necessary. In my case, wires are a royal PITA so, I went with the Taylor 409s. I've had the MSD's arc in the past on the blower bracket but with the right clearance, no problem. The 409s have taken a ton of abuse, they look cool as well... They get my vote. (Keith)

 

EXHAUST

 

ADJUSTING SIDEPIPE HEIGHT WITH ENGINE MOUNTS

Assuming you are measuring from the 90 deg bend just before the collector of the sidepipe, you can get these to even up by loosening the motor mounts at the frame and tilting the engine. You'll be surprised how little it takes at the motor to get lots of swing out at the pipe ends.(Todd)

CAR CHEMISTRY INSERT INSTALLATION

I cut open the J-pipes and welded in Car Chemistry Inserts (Summit) with the 3 discs for street. Welded pipes back together using 2.5" exhaust pipe couplers from Pep Boys. Made the alignment of the side pipes easier as I could rotate the J-pipe pieces to get side pipes straight before tack welding the couples to the J-pipe pieces. Am awaiting return of the J-pipes from the ceramic coater in Phoenix. Havent run car with them yet so cant attest to muffling quality.(Eddie )

CERAMIC COATING

My go-kart has less than 100 miles on it in 18 mo. since I got my kit with the FFR coated pipe option. One of the side pipes is rusting in the valley of the 4 pipe segment. My body will be out of the painter in about a month and I've elected to have the side pipes re-coated by Custom Coating of PHX who did a super job on my J-pipes. In retrospect, I'd recommend folks save the money spent on the "thin" FFR coating job and have a better coating job done elsewhere. I was quoted $230 for the coating and $35 to remove the FFR coating + shipping. I hear that the worst part is shipping the pipes and not getting them beat up by UPS. I'm using the plywood from FFR's crate to build a shipping crate, lined with foam carpet pad, etc. Due to UPS's surcharges on large items, I'm limiting the box to 60" long, 18" wide and 9" tall.
Eddie

Agree with Racing Rob, Airborn Coatings is the way to go. $420 for headers, J-pipes and side exhaust. Takes about a week and is close enough to drive to. Scott's a nice guy. Here's a couple of pictures

HEADER COATING

[SC] "I just what everyone to know that Performance Coating in Jonesboro, GA did a awesome job coating my FFR 4 to 4 headers. They were very quick with getting me my headers back (1 week) and, also very cheap. It was only $149 shipped back to me. I will always deal with these people from now on. 1-770-478-2775 or www.headercoatings.com <http://www.headercoatings.com>"

[oo] "We have a place that is closer.
New Image Powdercoat in Struthers Ohio
(Youngstown) ask for Jim 330-755-1918
I have had thousands of parts powder coated there and he does great work. Also does many headers with the jet hot type coating."

 

FINISHES

 

Looks like there might be some promising (and cheap) polished aluminum sealers @ Aircraft Spruce.  Probably "Zoop Seal" without the branding. (Ozona)

PAINT CUT AND BUFF PRODUCTS

http://www.ffcobra.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=003100

HEADER COATING

[SC] "I just what everyone to know that Performance Coating in Jonesboro, GA did a awesome job coating my FFR 4 to 4 headers. They were very quick with getting me my headers back (1 week) and, also very cheap. It was only $149 shipped back to me. I will always deal with these people from now on. 1-770-478-2775 or www.headercoatings.com <http://www.headercoatings.com>"

[oo] "We have a place that is closer.
New Image Powdercoat in Struthers Ohio
(Youngstown) ask for Jim 330-755-1918
I have had thousands of parts powder coated there and he does great work. Also does many headers with the jet hot type coating."

 

CERAMIC COATING

My go-kart has less than 100 miles on it in 18 mo. since I got my kit with the FFR coated pipe option. One of the side pipes is rusting in the valley of the 4 pipe segment. My body will be out of the painter in about a month and I've elected to have the side pipes re-coated by Custom Coating of PHX who did a super job on my J-pipes. In retrospect, I'd recommend folks save the money spent on the "thin" FFR coating job and have a better coating job done elsewhere. I was quoted $230 for the coating and $35 to remove the FFR coating + shipping. I hear that the worst part is shipping the pipes and not getting them beat up by UPS. I'm using the plywood from FFR's crate to build a shipping crate, lined with foam carpet pad, etc. Due to UPS's surcharges on large items, I'm limiting the box to 60" long, 18" wide and 9" tall.
Eddie

Agree with Racing Rob, Airborn Coatings is the way to go. $420 for headers, J-pipes and side exhaust. Takes about a week and is close enough to drive to. Scott's a nice guy. Here's a couple of pictures

PAINTING ALUMINUM

best thing to do with alum is to prime it first with variprime, dupont 615s, but only the areas that you want it to stick. cheers, SRP
ALUMINUM PANEL PRIMER

Use Dupont Variprime - 2 part metal etch primer - ask for sluminum substrate additive - 2 coats, let dry a day, wet sand w/ 600 and paint.
POWDER COATING

I have the home powdercoating system and it works great. I use the propane method and it comes out fantastic. Yes, one propane tank will do what you want to do and then some. One pound of powder is enough to do both sidepipes and then some. I have been buying my powder off of EBay since I can get about 2 pounds for the same price as some other places 1/2 pound price. Lots of colors to choose from too. (Super Skippy)

I used some scrap lumber to make a "spray booth". It's just the right size to hold the oven racks. Then I line it with a large plastic bag to collect the overspray. And I have a cooling rack on the wall to hang them up after coming out of the oven.

The most important aspect is heat control. It needs to be a steady temp. So use a good oven and a thermometer - don't trust the dial. Then slow cooling provides a better shine. So after the parts are done I turn the heat off and just crack the door open to allow gradual cooling.

I've grown really fond of translucent colors on polished alum or bead blasted chrome. Looks great with vibrant colors and a deep deep shine. I noticed today that AFS Wheels has discovered the same thing. I may just have to buy a set.(boB)

CHROME PLATING SOURCE

Out here in the west, one of the most reputable chrome plating shops is:

KERR WEST PLATING
4737 N. 43rd Ave. Suites 2,3,4
Phoenix, AZ. 85031
(623)937-8676
(623)937-2080

Talk only to Mike(owner) for a cobraforum package price.
Very good product!
Very good customer service!

I paid $80 for each roll bar, and $80 for all four quick jacks.

VHT HIGH PERFORMANCE COATINGS - HEADERS, ENGINE, AND CLEAR COAT FOR POLISHED METAL

http://www.caswellplating.com/frames.php?bottom=/vht.htm

ALUMINUM PANEL PRIMER

Use Dupont Variprime - 2 part metal etch primer - ask for sluminum substrate additive - 2 coats, let dry a day, wet sand w/ 600 and paint.

Best thing to do with alum is to prime it first with variprime, dupont 615s, but only the areas that you want it to stick. cheers, SRP

PAINTING THE PLASTIC GAS TANK

Use SEM paint for plastic. available at any auto paint store. some jobbers can tint it to match your car color. cheers, SRP

POWDER COATING REMOVAL

http://www.hotcoatpro.com/cgi-bin/sgsh0108.exe?&UID=2002032018300172&SKW=TPA3&FNM=15

http://www.hotcoatpro.com/cgi-bin/sgdynamo.exe?HTNAME=hotcoatpro/proinst/required_pro_new.htm&UID=2002032018300172

RADIATOR HOSE MAINTAINENCE

TO KEEP YOUR HOSES LOOKING GOOD, SPRAY THEM WITH LEMON PLEDGE FURNITURE POLISH. THEN WIPE.
WORKS ON YOUR TIRES ALSO. (Oldman Ohio)

CHROME PLATING

Eric, I heard that New England chrome plating is a
good one. Did not have anything done myself
thay are in East Hartford CT.
phone# 860-528-7176

CERAMIC COATING FOR HEADERS

Powder Coating Solutions
Greenland NH
Nice guys(Bill FFR 1668)

Talk to the guys at Powdercoating Solutions in Greenland NH. They were doing all my go-kart stuff for several years, and I'm a tough guy to please...I always shop for the best for the least $$.(Joe Leone)

These people do an excellent job:
Prizm Powder Coating
12 Kendrick road
Wareham, MA
508 295 5601
Yes, they are on the same Industrial Park as FFR, but they are not the current powdercoating supplier for them.(John FFR2457K)

CERAMIC COATING

New England Industrial number is
508-754-1066

Worcester, MA  $350 for pipes and headers

 

FRAME MODIFICATIONS

 

FRAME MODIFICATIONS REQUIREING WELDING

Ground studs - One on each outside corner of the frame (1/4-20x3/3" for the lights), two on top of the 2x2 behind the dash (for gauges, etc.), two 3/8-20x1" on the upper, forward corners of the trand tunnel (just below the firewall) for engine ground studs (connecting both aluminum heads to block and frame), and one 3/8-20x1" on the inside of the one of the (3x2?) frame rails (just above the rear suspension) for a master battery ground.

Dash tabs - Pretapped tabs, about 3/4" wide x1" tall, just above the door hinges on the 2x2" for mounting the dash.

Tow hooks, front and rear of each main 4" frame tube.(Barry Mattingly)

FUEL SYSTEM

 

GOOD SOURCE FOR FUEL LINE FITTINGS

http://www.amstreetrod.com/contact.html  (Technical help available)

AEROQUIP SITE

http://www.aeroquip.com/media/A-SPPE-MC0001-E.pdf (PDF Format with assembly and technical help)

FUEL LINES

Fuel Lines <http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=013007>
If you call Ron Morris 209-605-1590 in Modesto, CA, he'll send the FFR system to you.
lnj

I ran the back with the basic ford stuff.
In the engine bay on the feed 5/16 line I double flaired into a union to a 6AN line which I ran to the fuel rails. I cut the line at the square block inlet into the rails. I just didn't like the angle of the tube going into the stock rails. I then drilled out the line going into the square block on the fuel rail with a 7/16 drill and tapped it with a 1/4 npt fitting(then flushed and blew things out about a thousand times too make sure every little bit of metal filings were removed). There is a fair amount of meat there so you can get a good amount of thread. I then elbowed in with a 1/4 elbow to a 1/4npt T where I mounted a fuel pressure gage and then went to a 6AN fair fitting. This setup seams to give a much more unobstructed flow into the stock rails and looks much better.
I used the stock return but plan on cutting and flaring into a 4AN return line to the 1/4 retun line at the foot box.(Cobramd)

Fuel line thread http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=013007#000000

Advil, out here in Oregon, used some lines from Ron Morris Performance <http://www.ronmorrisperformance.com/04fuel/fittings.htm> of California on his FFR roadster. I placed a call today.(lnj)

FUEL LINE UPGRADE

Try purechoicemotorsports.com they have the adapters and the lines. A few guys here went that route, but I'm not sure how much it costs. I would be interested.

You might consider making the hose yourself from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty parts. I did. You'll find the fittings are cheaper at Aircraft Spruce.

I'm using braided steel lines and AN fittings for my car. Here is what I estimated:

FUEL SYSTEM
Auto-Flex braided fuel line (-8, 15 feet est) - $89
90 deg 3/8" NPT male Swivel-Seal hose end (8AN hose end, mounts to fuel pump inlet) - $29
90 deg Swivel-Seal hose end (TBD, mounts to fuel cell) - $29
45 deg Swivel-Seal tube end hose adapter (8AN, mounts on SSTL tube to hard line at firewall) - $20
Straight Swivel-Seal tube end hose adapter (8AN, mounts on SSTL tube to fuel manifold)- $9
Swivel-Seal Holley fuel manifold (8AN male both ends for fuel press gauge) - $83
Holley Red 97 gph electric fuel pump (3/8" in/out) - $76

Total: $335
ZMAN, I don't know what part of the world your in but I went to Granberry Hose in Mesa, AZ and bought braided stainless hose for the supply and return lines and steel fittings to plumb it with and took them home. I took each steel fitting and polished them, about 5 minutes each. I cut and fit each section using straight, 22 1/2, 45 and 90 degree fittings. I then took the whole thing back to the shop where they crimped each fitting. I then took them home and touched up the polished fittings and installed them. These fittings and hoses are made to take 500 PSI, won't burn if left on your headers for years and are teflon lined so that no matter what you put in them it's safe. I spent $157. I also bought the adaptors from Pure Choice at $60. I also did the supply and return to my System 1 remote oil filter for $29. Gordon was at my house 2 weeks ago and thought they looked great. The steel in the fittings is very good quality. After I polished the first fitting on a friday night I sprayed water on it while it layed on my steel work bench. Monday morning I picked it up from the puddle of water and it was untouched by rust. If these lines and fittings can last on heavy equipment, a Cobra shouldn't hurt them. Don

Here's what ya do for EFI. Use the Purechoice adaptors to AN off the fuel rails. Run braided line down to the footbox, lower. Run the steal line from the lower footbox to the rear. Use Purechoice fuel line SS compression to AN for the feed line and get something similar from NAPA for the return line. Pure choice can help you out here as well. Couple the steel hard line to braided line at lower footbox area and likewise on vertical 2'" member that's behind the wheel. At the rear couple into the stock lines that run into the filter and tank.

This installation looks good and is solid w/o splicing and clamping any rubber lines. Engine bay looks great w/ the braided hose. You can also plumb in a nice pressure gauge for a few extra bucks.

Total installation costs is approx. $225.00.

After re-reading my post I have to edit the price. Unfortunately, you can't do this installation for $125. Really sorry guys for my typo.

Advil - here's a basic list of parts/costs

Purechoice fuel rail fittings $60
Pure choice comp lock fittings $30 ea - 3 used
6AN straights $6 ea - 4 used
6AN swivel $8 - 1 used
Braided line - $40 - 6 ft used
Fittings for 1/4 line - can't immediately find price or p/n's for these fittings in my paperwork. I got both front and rear at my local NAPA.

Actual installation price is probably closer to $250.

My solution was by no means cost effective! I went from the steel lines supplied by FFR through stainless unions under the drivers footbox to stainless tubing. I used stainless Swagelock (brand name) compression fittings to get to NPT thread. From 1/4" NPT thread I used Aeroquip AN fittings and braided stainless hose coupled to the Purechoice fittings. While the stainless tubing was only for looks, the rest of the parts are high quality fittings that don't leak. In my mind that justifies the cost. The last thing I wanted was a fuel leak above the J-pipe. Here is my list starting from the tubing and working to the fuel rails:

Tubing to 1/4" NPT Threads

Swagelok Stainless Steel Compression Fittings

5/16" tube to 1/4" NPT - p/n SS-500-7-4 ~ $9.00
3/8" tube to 1/4" NPT - p/n SS-600-7-4 ~ $9.00

Purchased 1 of each from Florida Fluid Systems Technologies 954-846-2555 <http://www.swagelok.com>

1/4 NPT Threads to #6 AN- Aeroquip Fittings

45 degree adapter 1/4" NPT to #6 AN, nickle plated - p/n FCE 2022 ~ $11.00 each x 2
straight aluminum, #6 AN to braided hose, nickle plated - p/n FCE 1012 ~ $6.00 each x 2
3' #6 braided stainless line - p/n FBA0600 ~ $5.50 per foot
45 degree swivel aluminum swivels, braided hose to #6 AN, nickle plated - p/n FCE 4022 ~ $15.00 each x 2

Purchased from Hydraulic Supply Company 954-845-1040 <http://www.hydraulic-supply.com>

#6 AN to Fuel Rails

Pure Choice #6 AN to Ford EFI rails, p/n 5700 ~ $60.00 for the pair. Purchased from Pure Choice Motorsports 888-505-8355 <http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com/>

The total cost for the above is around $160.00 plus shipping and tax. Again, this is not the cheapest solution. If you choose to go this route make sure when you order the pieces you ask for the installation instructions. The Swagelok fittings specifically can be overtightened and they will leak. All of the above parts are high quality stuff. If you choose to spend the money I don't think you will be disappointed in the quality. Hope this helps!

FUEL PUMP RECOMMENDATION

Spend a couple of extra dollars and get the walbro GSS340M.
There are 2-255lph pumps on the market, both mfg by walbro. The GSS307 is the standard 255lph, the GSS340 is the high pressure/volume model. You will thank me later is you put a supercharger on other power adders on

Best prices I've found for Walbro pumps is JDs Performance (<http://www.jdsperformance.com>). Great customer service too.

They also sell Kirban fuel pressure regulators. I have read that they are better quality than the Aeromotive ones, and they're cheaper.

Nylon Fuel Lines

http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=013007#000000

 

GENERAL INFORMATION

SITE FOR POSTING PICTURES

will soon January (5th) be setting up a web site devoted to pictures for FFR COBRA cars. Any and all members will be able to post ther pictures there in any of 40 some catagories or just by name or car number. Total storage will be somewhere it the range of 1.2 terabytes or about 1million 1mb picture files. I need to get together with Bill#1 and have him put a link up on the forum. This should solve everyone picture posting problems and save some money too.
Craig (AKA Rocket Scientist)

HOW AND WHERE TO POST PHOTOS COURTESY JOHN HUDSON

http://www.ffcobra.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=004924;p=

LOST A FINGER

You are very lucky-years ago an acquaintenance lost his finger while removing the positive clamp on a battery-wrench on the positive terminal-wedding band touching the wrench-other side of the wedding band hit the sheet metal causing a ground-500 plus instaneous amps vaporized the ring---finger bone burned---finger amputated.

Never wear jewelry-bracelets, rings and especially metal banded watches when working on cars or electrical systems. (Dave )

 

FFCOBRA FORUM POLICY

http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010052#000009

 

GAUGES

 

WEB SITE FOR MPH/REAR GEARS

http://chris.kellnet.com/chambers/gear_selector.htm

 

WIRING DIAGRAM FOR AFTER MARKET GAUGES

http://www.onlinecobra.com/dash_schematic1.gif

AUTOMETER 427 GAUGES

Has any one bought the AutoMeter 427 gauges from Highland Daytona Racing to use in there FFR. They look very similer to the Smiths. Is there any complants with these gauges and is Highland Daytona Racing a respectable company. Want to know before i send them 600$.

this sight for the gauges i am talking about is
www.cobracountry.com/hdr/427gauges.html <http://www.cobracountry.com/hdr/427gauges.html>

Don't know about HDR, but I got mine from Mike Mack <http://www.tristatemotorsports.com/> he's got a banner here plus I believe he had a special of $475 for the gauges at one time. Love the look and the reliability of the Autometers. You will need a reverser for the speedo (another $40)

I bought the Autometer 427 guages from Mike Mack. They are nice guages and fit the FFR dash without modification. You will need the reverser adapter and the fuel sender, which is much nicer than the factory sender. You may also need a longer speedo cable to come into the reverser adapter. Breeze has a nice Stainless Steel speedo cable that is a foot longer than stock. The only problem I had with these guages is when I tightened the speedo into the dash too hard and popped the trim ring off of the guage. It appeared to be held on with hot glue, so I put epoxy on it and have had not had any other problems.

Oh yeah, I forgot about the fuel sender. You use the old float and adapt the new sender. Delivery was good, My Speedo came with a loose bezel, Mike replaced it. The stock speedo cable length worked fine, you need to mod the gage end of the cable to make it fit.

TriState sells the reverser and tank sender. Make sure reverser is set up right, it gan be "built" 2 different ways, I ruined a speedo cable not knowing that.

Not only is it a reverser, it can be used on a standard reading speedo, some folks use it to bring the cable in from the side for what ever reason, maybe clearance. There is a "S" (standard) and an "R" (reverse) cast in to the little housing. I believe the cable attaches to ther "R" side the other end attaches to the gauges, I 'm going on memory, which should cause you to check it out for yourself. With the car up on jack stands, run the car to determine the cable rotation, attach the reverser to the speedo spin the little drive shaft and note the direction required to get a reading. Make sure the 2 jive or you will twist off the end of your cable. One more thing, remove the little brass bushing that is pressed onto the square shaft of the reverser, it causes everthing to bind when the reverser is tightened.
Hope this helps.

AUTOMETER GAUGES

I need to order a full batch o' Autometer Ultralites...the firt place I ordered them from was taking too long, so I cancelled the order. What prices can your guy offer?

here's what I need:

5" speedo, 0-160 (electric)
5" tach, 10K (electric)
2 5/8" Water temp (electric)
2 5/8" Oil temp (electric)
2 5/8" oil press (electric)
2 5/8" Fuel level (electric)
'87-93 Ford Fuel level sender
2 5/8" Voltmeter
2 5/8" Boost (mechanical)

ELECTRIC VS MECHANICAL FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE

Roscoe's right about the isolator if you go w/ a mechanical gauge. If you get the electric fuel pressure gauge, it has a sending unit similar to an oil pressure sending unit that gets "tee'd" into the fuel line.

I have the Autometer 100 PSI electric gauge and it works great. Dead accurate against a mechanical test gauge too.

AUTOMETER COBRA GAUGES

The Gauge set comes with: Speedo 180mph reverse
Tach 8000 rpm
oil pressure
water temp
volt meter
Gas gauge- compatable with donor
sender
Clock or Oil Temp your choice
The speedo,tach,fuel,volt,clock do not need senders
the water temp has a sender (mechanical)
the oil temp has a sender (mechanical)
The oil pressure needs a line kit. I include a nylon one, but if you want copper or braided stainess it is extra.
The only thing you may need is the reverse gear box if your using a T-5 or Tremec.  (Mike supplies)

(Mike Mack - Tri State Motorsports)

RESETTING THE ODOMETER

It's a bit tricky, but yes you can. First take the donor guage out and on the back side you will see a couple of pins... one that hold the wheels in place. Pull out the pin out of this one and rotate the numbers to where you want them to be. A little bit of tape can be helpful in keeping them lined up as you try to get it back into place.(Steve Armstrong)

 

HEATER

HEATER

I Agree.. Mount the firewall first , then the heater, and the wipers last . ( route around heater) I used a dremmel with a cut off wheel to cut the opening for the HEATER. Worked Great!!

50515-VUH is heater only. Comes with three speed
blower and HEATER control valve and rotary control knobs and wiring harness. Price $140.00

50615-VUH is the same (but) with Defrosters including hoses and ducts. Price $184.00

Same one used here 50610VUH. Ran the defroster duct to the driver footbox behind the dash and it gets great heat. Make sure you use the stock 195 thermostat, as I used the 180 degree at first and didnt get any heat when the outside temperature dropped below 50. I also had some trouble when I would accelerate rapidly, the heater would blow cold air for a few minutes. I put in a couple of vacuum checkvalves in as well, however it might have just been that thermostat.

Hey guys, Just wanted to let everyone know that I found a place that sells the Vintage air compact heater/defrost with vents for $169, which is a heck of a lot cheaper than anyone else I could find. Check out Hot Rods USA. The details are below:
VIN# 6150615

Hot Rods USA
PO Box 872373
Vancouver, WA 98687
www.hotrodheaven.com <http://www.hotrodheaven.com>
(360)882-0444

Try www.hotrodsusa.com <http://www.hotrodsusa.com> for Vintage Air HEATERs, price similar to above quoted by PepeBorja. I ordered mine there, it arrived within a week, drop-shipped direct from VintageAir! 50615-VUH , same as FFR supplies.

HEATER

If you want the one FFR supplies, buy it from Vintage Air for $75-$100 cheaper. I bought mime from FFR because I reasoned that installation instructions specifically for the FFR would be worth the extra cost. The FFR instructions are a joke. They're completely useless! The heater, on the other hand, is great. Call Vintage Air @ 210-654-7171 and order p/n 50610-VUH.

 

OPTIONS LIST

3.27 Rear Axle with Traction Loc, Mark VIII Spindles, Brakes, and CVs.
PS Engineering 15" GT40 Wheels (7.5 Front, 9.5 Rear)
BFG Comp T/A Tires, 235/60 Front, 275/50 Rear
Power Brakes (Ford HydroBoost)
Power Steering
Finishline Front Bumperettes and Nudge Bar
Finishline Rear Bumperettes and Nudge Bar
Finishline Side Mirror Brackets
Finishline Brake Duct Grilles
Finishline Tensor Bar
Finishline Chrome Raydots
Finishline Amber Turn Signals, Rear
Finishline Clear Turn Signals, Front
Powdercoated Alunimum Panels (all except dash)
AM/FM/CD/Cassette - Ford Escape
Breeze Upper Steering Shaft
Breeze Intermediate Steering Shaft
Breeze Rag Joint Eliminator
Breeze Seat Recliners and SLiding Seat Track
Breeze Aluminum Steering Rack Offset Bushings
Breeze Computer Cover
Breeze Dashboard Reinforcing Brackets
Breeze EFI Wiring Harness Install Kit
Breeze HD Upper Radiator Mounting Bolts
Breeze Vapor Canister Hose
Porterfield R4S Brake Pads
Powdercoated Aluminum Panels
Lisman Widgets (Upper A-Arm ALignment Adjusters)
Roger Stine Tonneau Cover
Roger Stine Body Prep (completed, less paint)
Roger Stine Hood Hinge DELETE
Ford Motorsport In Dash Clock (matches donor)
Ford Motorsport Power Steering Relocation Kit
Finishline Visors
Finishline Wind Wings
Russ Thompson Trunk Hoop
Russ Thompson Throttle Pedal, Brake & Clutch Covers
TriState Center Console
TriState Interior and Trunk Carpet Kit
Spare Tire, 5 lug, 16", Spacesaver
Finishline defroster vents
Finishline Trunk Prop Rod
Finishline Wipers, Complete Lucas Setup
GM Transmission Fluid
Heidt's Power Steering Adjustable Pressure Valve
Wilwood Brake Bias Valve
Mike Everson Front License Plate Bracket
Mike Everson Windshield Trim
Polyurathane Differential Mounts
Richarn Oben Turn Signal Switch
Press's Weatherstriping
FMS 5 Lug Front Rotors
Gold Painted Calipers, High Temp Epoxy
VIN, FFCobra for FFR Roadster
500 Pound Rear Springs
Cover, All Weather

 

ngle V-belt, standard rotation)

As you can see, this is far from a basic FFR build. Also, note that I’ve got about $32,500 invested already. In case you’re wondering why I’m selling, child number two is due this winter and it’d be nice to have a slightly more family-friendly “fun” car. And the car is already titled in Wyoming as a 1965 Ford Roadster. (I got transferred to Utah from Wyoming last year and was able to title the car before the move.)

If you’re seriously interested, e-mail me if you have any questions, and I can also reply with any requested photos of the car. I’m asking $32,000.

Thanks for looking,

Jim Doak
Sandy, Utah
FFR 2117

- Powder coated frame (FFR option)
- Rear control arms (FFR option)
- 4-into-4 headers and side pipes (FFR option - ceramic coated)
- Oil cooler (FFR option - not installed)
- Smith’s gauges (FFR option)
- Hood hinge (FFR option - not installed)
- Sun visors (FFR option)
- Wind wings (FFR option)
- Driver’s side seat track (FFR option)
- Flaming River 18:1 steering rack
- Breeze Automotive upper and intermediate steering shafts
- Energy Suspension polyurethane steering rack bushings
- Energy Suspension polyurethane engine and transmissions mounts
- Ford Motorsports heavy duty front lower control A-arms
- Ford 331 small block engine
- Newly built from a 1980 non-roller cam block
- Stroked 302 (SCAT crank and H-beam rods, SRP pistons)
- 10.4 : 1 compression ratio
- Edelbrock Performer RPM aluminum heads
- Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold
- Holley 650 double pumper carb
- Carter mechanical fuel pump
- Competition Cams hydraulic cam (240 deg intake / 246 deg exhaust @ 0.050” and 0.541”/0.544” lift)
- Competition Cams roller rockers
- Tony Branda tall “Cobra” valve covers (clears roller rockers)
- MSD distributor and coil
- MSD 6AL ignition control box with rev limiter
- Canton 7-quart oil pan
- Edelbrock Aluminum water pump
- Fluidampr harmonic balancer
- March pulleys (single V-belt, standard rotation)
- Powermaster starter
- New 3-row radiator with plugged fill port
- Aluminum overflow re-circulating catch can
- Moroso radiator hose filler
- New Heavy Duty T-5 transmission (not rebuilt)
- New Ford Motorsports heavy duty clutch
- ’97 Mustang Cobra rear axle with 3.55 gears
- Mustang Cobra brakes front and rear
- Gordon Levy master cylinder and Wilwood proportioning valve
- Ford Motorsport Cobra R wheels (17 x 9)
- Bridgestone Potenza RE71 tires (245/40-17 front and 275/40-17 rear)
- Russ Thompson throttle pedal
- Russ Thompson turn signal and bezel
- Russ Thompson roll bar bezels
- Russ Thompson quick jack covers (not installed)
- Mike Everson seat belt, windshield post and emergency brake trim plates
- Mike Everson weatherstripping (not installed)
- Finish Line rear license plate mount
- Quick jacks, roll bar and door hinges are ceramic coated
- Finish Line mesh brake vent covers (not installed)
- Finish Line steering wheel Cobra emblem
- Front and rear round Cobra emblems (not installed)
- "Powered By Ford" side emblems (not installed)

MAINTAINENCE

 

PEDALS

 

REAR END

 

ROLL BAR

 

SEATS

 

SUPPLIES

PAINT CUT AND BUFF PRODUCTS

http://www.ffcobra.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=003100

BRITISH RACING GREEN

Colors are BMW Oxford Green Metallic (authentic BRG but with the high metallic content I was looking for) and Lotus Yellow L07.http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=012657

PAINT QUANTITY

the 2 gallons of k36 should easily get you through the bodywork stage. you will need a gallon of color and a gallon of clear. plus activators and reducers.

 

STEERING

 

SUSPENSION

 

NARROWING THE REAR

I cut my own housing and had Moser make new axles They are not that expensive. If you don't want to cut the housing yourself you can usaully find someone to do that for $150.(Dennis Weinstein)

Gordon, I had mine shortened 2.5" on both sides, had 9"axle bearings and retainers installed (eliminates the "c"-clip), had disc brakes installed,(off '98 explorer), new axles from Moser 31 spline, had new posi installed and new gears set up (I had already purchsed the posi and gears) for about $1100. Youll probably have to eliminate the quad shocks, although some guys have swapped quad shock axle mounts side to side and they said that works. Right now I'm running adjustable upper arms, FFR lowers and am installing coilovers to move my shocks inboard away from my disc brakes. This will also allow me to raise the rear a little more. My wheels are Torque Thrusts, 15" with 3.5 BS. The wheel/tire fills the wheel well and looks good with the deep offset. If you need pics I can e-mail some to you. Good luck, (Bob AKA BK347)

I did 2 3/4" on each side and they turned out great, I have P S engineering wheels.(Reno)

I don't know if you can get 6" without cutting the lower control arm mount off. I did mine 4" (2 on each side) and like the look. I had it done locally.(Jeff Hamilton )

$345 Moser axles and cutting the housing..(Jeff Hamilton )

I'll be going w/PSE Halibrands - with a deeper offset in the rear (getting the axle narrowed 2" on each side).(KobraKurt)

2. Rear end dimensions are these, flange to flange:
- Fox solid 59.5"
- SN95 solid 63.5"
- T-Bird solid 63.5" (in original car setup)
- FFR standard IRS 59.5" (T-Bird in FFR setup)
- FFR Pin Drive Option 54.5" (FFR supplies shorter arms and axles, 4.5" per side compared to T-Bird stock in a T-Bird assembly)

3. The Pin Drive Option (PDO) therefore allows less wheel backspace , typically 3.5".(Larry Johnson)

BUMP STEER

Bump steer is the effect of the wheels going toe in - toe out when going through suspension travel. It can be corrected in a number of ways. (there may be more, but I know of 3)

1: Change the caster. Increasing caster should lessen bump steer.

2: Lowering the steering rack with offset bushings, like Breeze sells for $45.

3: Using a bump steer kit in place of the stock tie rod ends. Breeze sells the best one that I've seen. Often this will need to be used in conjunction with the offset bushings to achieve zero bump steer.

here's my description and measurement/correction:

What is bump steer? It's the behavior of the front wheels going from a toe in to a toe out (or vice versa) condition as the suspension travels.

How do I correct it? First you need to measure it. From there, you can figure out in which way you would need to correct it.

How do I measure it? Ok, here we go. This is my patented, trademarked sure to cost nothing method to measure bump steer. For a no-cost licence raise your right hand and say "My Cobra IS Real".

Step 1: Measure the distance from the bottom of the front of the 4" round tube part of the frame to the floor. Write down that #.

Step 2: Find something on the lower control arm that's easy to measure against and measure that to the floor. Write down that #.

Step 3: Jack up the car and remove the wheel. Find something that can go under the frame to make it be the same height that you measured. Put it there and let the car down on it.

Step 4: Remove the shock/spring. Lock the steering. With a mustang rag joint set up, I'm able to jam a couple of screwdrivers in place and hold it real well.

Step 5: Use a big C clamp to clamp the brake pads shut to keep the disk from turning.

Step 6: Clamp something onto the disk to help you see what's going on. A carpenter's square works good. Make the 2 foot long section go horizontally.

Step 7: Use your floor jack to eyeball how your setup works. Start with the control arm set the measurement you found in step 2. Now let the control arm down. You will see the disk (carpenter's square) going inboard, no matter what, but look for the direction change....toe in/out. It will be pretty obvious. Now that you see that, write down what happened. Now jack the suspension up and watch what happens on the way up.....or back down. If you have no bump steer issues, you won't see any toe in/out.

Step 8: If you want, you can take careful measurements. Make your own set up to mark the position of the front AND the back of that carpenter's square. Mark both positions at normal ride height (from step 2) and then about 3 inches up and again at 3 inches down.

Step 9: Changes: You can loosen your steering rack, remove the rubber bushings, let the rack drop all the way and re-measure. Try again with it all the way up. You can clamp the rack in place, or something. Hey, you built a car, you can figure it out. You may see it get better, worse or not change much.

Step 10: Changes: You can also remove the tie rod end and rotate it on top. You won't be able to push it all the way down, but just hold it above the spindle and see what happens.

(note, on my car, lowering the rack all the way helped, but not much. Holding the tie rod end location right in the middle of the spindle mounting point made things perfect....of course that would mean some cutting and welding. Holding it on top, the toe in/out reversed, but was about the same amount. I ended up finding that raising the rack and putting the tie rod end on top made things perfect. You have to drill the spindle to allow the tie rod end to drop in from the top)
TOE IN ADJUSTMENT

The adjusters, no matter whose kit, are not incorrectly machined. They are incorrectly named! They (we) call them couplers. The coupler is assembled to the rod end and held with the jam nut. On our coupler, there is a hex section for the purpose of tightening the jam nut. When assembled, the unit is the same as a standard outer tie rod end, with right hand female threads.
The OEM Mustang rack has a hex section or flats on the inner tie rod end. (the FR rack omits this feature) The normal way to set toe is to loosen the inner tie rod end boot clamp, rotate the inner tie rod end to set the toe, fix the setting with the jam nut against the outer tie rod end (or coupler) and then replace the boot clamp. In the case of the Flaming river, just replace the crimped metal clamp with a zip tie.

While I'm at it, if you want a bump kit that does not require drilling the spindles, Breeze offers an exclusive kit (70049 Rod End Tie Rod End Kit, $149, now with nickel plated studs and couplers) (Mark Reynolds)

LOWER CONTROL ARMS WITH 3-LINK

http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=012112

REASONS FOR USING SN95 SPINDLES

They already have 5 lugs.
Better ackerman.
Sealed bearings
Better selection of brakes. Most of the brake kits available for the fox body Mustangs include the sn95 spindles.

You'll have to let FFR know that you are using sn95 spindles and they will send you the "comp" IFS bracket that bolts to the top of the spindle where the strut went. They usually don't charge for it.(Jim Pomroy)

Better ackerman, better bearings, better brake options, better wheel options. You can put Mustang Bullitt wheels on these spindles with no modifications. In addition to the cobra PBRs, you can put 99+ Mustang V6/V8 or Bullit brakes on. I put the V6/V8 brakes on my car. They are aluminum dual piston PBRs, much lighter than any other Mustang brakes. I paid $140 for the entire front brake system, new takeoffs. It is a cheap performance upgrade. (ffroggy)

DISASSEMBLE AND REASSEMBLE SN95 SPINDLES

I want to sandblast my rusty 'ol SN95 spindles, so I was going to take off the hubs. Last night I popped the dust cover off and got a little intimidated. I don't recognize the type of cage on the nut. How do you get that off? Does the bearing have to be pressed off? I want to replace the seals while I am at it. Has anyone done this?(Joe)

Piece of cake, don't worry about it - I've done two sets in less time than it takes to write this.

It's a multi-plate captured nut, uses a 35 or 36 MM socket (which you can get at pep-boys or any good auto parts store). The nuts are for one-time use but are readily available.

Use a gear puller to remove the hub (should come off easily). I then clean the upright and hub surfaces with solvent and blow dry, then tape off the spindle (the shiny part) and bearing areas of the hub with masking tape (do a good job on the hub!) and blast away. Be very careful not to rupture or loosen the tape covering the bearings.

FWIW, the bearings on the SN95 hubs are not replaceable....it might just be easier/better to replace them.(Barry Mattingly)

Do I need to pry open the cage on the nut, or just take the whole thing off? What should I torque it to when I put it back on?(Joe)

Nope, get a 36mm socket, you can "borrow" them from places like pep boyz, the whole nut stays together. When you put a NEW nut back on, don't reuse the old one, the torque value is 250 ft. lbs.(FFR2372)

STEERING RACK RELOCATION TO HELP ACKERMAN

http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=005373#000003

UPPER BALL JOINT CROWN NUT SPACER

I have my front end together and painted, now i am removing all pieces to line up and torque down everything, while tightening the crown nut from the upper balljoint to the comp bracket{ for sn95} the nut keeps going,, as if the balljoint were too small, in the manual it says you may need a spacer, i tried that , no help, the nut goes way past the cotterpin hole. the control arms are the adjustable ones with screw in balljoints. am i missing something, or is there a problem and i should call ffr? also both sides are doing the same thing, drivers and passengers.(vince )

You'll need the tapered spacers from Mark Reynolds. Breeze Automotive. There's no pics yet but here's his site:
<http://www.breezeautomotive.com/>
(J Marshall)

Guys - I did a lot of research on this awhile back. Here is what I found:

The taper on the SN95 ball joint and the Fox balljoint is the same - identical. The only difference is the height of the threads/balljoint. When you are using the SN95 spindles with the supplied bracket, you run out of threads before the nut is snug on the bracket.

Put a spacer between the bracket and the nut. This is the way that the Cobra brake kit comes from Ford. I stacked grade 8 washers until I had the height where the cotter pin hole was in the correct place in relation to the crown hut.

If the issue is the balljoint turning with the nut (can't tighten the nut), then get an impact wrench and hit it a couple of times - NOT TOO TIGHT, but that will snug up the balljoint and allow you to torque the nut correctly..

One hint: make sure that you have easy access to the cotter pin holes in the balljoint. (Colorado Steve )

KILLER SHOCKS

James Creasy and I are working with Ground Control to create a shock Specifically for the FFR chassis.

This is an all Aluminum threaded Double Adjustable Mono Tube Gas Coilover that is similar to a Koni or Penske racing shock.

http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=008825;p=1

 

GOOD 3-LINK POST

http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=012949

 

TOOLS

 

WHEELS AND TIRES

 

WHEEL AND TIRE SIZE

Wade used - front wheels are 17"x 8" with 245/45/17's and rear wheels are 17"x 10" with 275/40/17's.  http://www.tmctechnologies.com/cobra/Build.htm

MAXIMUM TIRE SIZE WITH 3-LINK

I have the 3-link. My street tires are 285/40-17 and they can rub the frame during hard cornering. I have a set of 275/40-17 for autocross and they are fine. (Bill - administrator)

INFORMATION ON TEAM III WHEELS

Richard Oben is most helpful and can specify and supply the correct Team III wheels for your car as that is his business.
His email is : Richard@NorthCobras.com <mailto:Richard@NorthCobras.com> .
His company web site is : North Racecars <http://www.northcobras.com/> .
Finally, here is an FF Cobra Forum thread on Team III wheels that might help: Team III Wheels thread <http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=011112>

TIRES

there are TWO kumho dot-r tires now: the Ecsta V700 and the Victoracer V700.

ive used both and both are good.

the Ecsta is a little softer and hooks up better. i think it is a better tire for our light cars.

-james

and to add to the confusion, there is an Ecsta STREET tire too!!!

[ June 28, 2002, 04:53 PM: Message edited by: Ophitoxaemia ]

TIRES

Front tires are NITTO NT 555 Extreme Performance 245/45ZR/17
Rear tires are 275/40ZR/17(Ace)

TIRE RECOMMENDATIONS

http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=011744#000014

EXPLANATION OF WHEEL OFFSET AND BACKSPACE

http://www.usacomp.com/Offset.htm

One step at a time. We know of one combination that works all the time. The Fox (87-93) rear end is 60" wide (give or take 1/8"). It works nearly all the time with 9" wheels at a 5.95" backspace (24mm offset). A 9" nominal wheel is about 9.9" wide at it's widest point, less the 5.95" backspace leaves 3.95 inches of "frontspace" for lack of a better word. Add our "frontspace" of 3.95 for each wheel to the axle width, and we get 3.95 + 3.95 + 60 = 67.9". That's from the extreme outside edges of the wheels across the car. That 67.9" (call it 68") works every time, as long as the body is set square on the frame, and the ride height is at 4.75", plus or minus 1/8". Our 6.42" backspace wheel on a SN95 axle, however is quite different. We now end up with 61.5 + (9.9-6.42) + (9.9-6.42) = 68.46", which is a full 1/2" wider than our Fox baseline. If you want to max out the tire width, and go for 275 tires, it just won't work unless you compensate by jacking up the ride height to 5.25" or so. If you already own the wheels, you can get your ride height back down by going with a narrower tire, like a 255/40 or a 245/45. The point is, 68 is absolutely the maximum width we have to work with, so all wheel width increases must go to the inside, where we encounter the quad shocks or the cockpit support tubing. In order to make a 275 tire work on a SN95 rear, the backspace must be closer to 6.7", as Richard pointed out earlier. Keep in mind that lots of guys that build FFRs end up keeping stock wheels, or going with 8" or 8.5" aftermarket wheels because of their availability. I was able to squeeze 9.5" on the back, only after I used Richard's caliper brackets with Ranger axles AND had the wheels built with a 6.5" backspace. I still hit the magic number of 68", but I may have some rubbing on the inside at full compression. I might need to install some limiting device on the suspension. Please let us know what you find when you check the wheels per Jesper's suggestion.

PICTURES

 Pictures of different Wheels

WIPERS

WIPER RECOMMENDATION

Wipers from Cobra Spares in England. Same Lucas setup as everyone else, but $245 complete.

The holes should be perpendicular to the windshield and smaller than the angled covers but large enough to pass the shaft. If you plan on buying the Lucas wipers, go the Cobra Spares in Britain. $245 US for the complete setup, wipers arms, wheelboxes, motor (everything except the switch) which includes shipping. I tried them with some trepidation, but ordered on Wed, received on Sat worked for me.

http://cobrasite4.home.attbi.com/lucas_wiper_install_info.HTM

WINDSHIELD WIPERS

My take on the wipers holes, etc., is that the holes are setup for the original right hand drive cars hence the wipers are setup to park to the right. I perfer to have my wipers park to the left and sweep the water away from the left side of the car. I realized this after I used FFR's holes. If, for myself, I were to install the wipers again I'd make a change to the holes, allowing the wipers to park to the left easier. Again this is just my take on wipers and what I like or don't like.

When installing the wipers just make sure you add a little flange (use a brake tube flaring tool) on the end of the tube to make sure it's held in place better. Also use some marine grease on the cable that slides in the tube. This will help keep the wipers working well.

MARINE WIPERS

Here's the installed motor, roughly the size of a can of WD-40. Completely self-contained, no maintenance, 2-speed and self-parking. It's called an MRV Wiper Motor, from AFI, Inc., 110 degree sweep, 2 1/2' shaft, 12V, part no. 34010. I believe it's in the West Marine catalog. You'll also need a 3-position switch, and the wiper arm and blade

Motor: MRV 110 degree sweep, 2 1/2 inch shaft, 12 volt part number 34010, by AFI Inc. About $150 or so, I think. The phone number for AFI is 707-226-9600 and the fax number is 707-226-9670. They have other motors, but this one has the biggest sweep, so get it.

Wiper arm: Stainless Steel adjustable-angle 12” by AFI. About $20, I think.

Wiper blade: I used a 10” MG blade bayonet mount which fits perfectly onto the AFI wiper arm. Available from Victoria British, part # 9-9705 for $8.95. AFI also sells an 11” blade I think would work fine. In fact, since my MG blade is worn out, I’ll try one this weekend and report how it works. About $10 I bet.

Trim: You need an angled chrome bezel and nut for the top of the cowl, which holds the motor shaft tight at the proper angle. These are available from a junk yard from almost any old British car, like an MG or Triumph. Or, buy new trim pieces from Victoria British, get “bezel kit” (nut, angled bezel, and gasket) part # 9-613 for $9.95 You must also put some kind of angled spacer on the motor shaft UNDER the cowl to position the motor and to meet up with the underside of the cowl at the same angle as the outer bezel will be. I don’t know where to find these, except at a junk yard, or just make one to fit your installation. Use a thick hard rubber tube, 1 1/2” long with an angle cut on the end meeting the cowl leaving the tube 1” long on the opposite side of the cut. Make sense?!

Switch: I have no electrical knowledge, lots of switches would probably work great. Mine came from the marine store, has three positions (park-slow-fast), is round and has a spring-loaded center to trigger a windshield washer if I ever install one. Ask one of the electrical gurus about a toggle setup if interested.

Installation: For the driver’s side wiper, drill a hole in the cowl for the motor shaft to stick through. The center of mine is 3” aft of the hood opening, and 11” left of the center line of my car. Don’t get all anal about this, because the length of the wiper arm is adjustable! You’ll be able to reach the windshield easily, and set the angle you like for parking the wiper blade. I park the blade toward the center of the car; if you want to park it toward the outside, you may need to figure out a different place to drill. Then, file the hole so it allows the motor shaft to stick through at the proper angle to match the trim bezel and the rubber tube you made for under the cowl.
Trial-fit everything and reassure yourself the wiper arm and blade fit properly. Next, run your wires for the motor and dash switch per the instructions that are furnished with the motor, it is totally easy even for the electrically impaired like me! I used a nylon pull-apart joint for the wires, so I can just unplug the electrical connections at the motor if necessary. Then do the final install of the motor, connect the wires, and anchor the end of the motor to the top of the footbox. I bolted an aluminum tab to the flange at the end of the motor, then screwed this tab to the footbox, but I have an old-style footbox. John Hannaford just ran a long small-diameter bolt or screw through the motor flange and into the top of his new-style footbox and it works fine. The point is just to brace the motor and keep it from rotating at the place where the shaft goes through the cowl. Install the GREAT wiper arm (compared to the crappy British arms I tried to use) but don’t tighten the arm’s set screw yet. Put on your wiper arm, spray some water or windex on the windshield, then turn the motor on to see how/where the arm rotates. Take it off the shaft and position it where you want to for the movement you like, then tighten it down. Set the angle of the arm, then tighten that. Then go looking for rain!

Passenger-side wiper? Well, I don’t have one, but no reason you can’t. Put an identical setup on that side, just drill the cowl hole in a different place depending on where you want the blade to travel and park, and run some kind of brace from the motor’s tail flange to the firewall or someplace else you like. FWIW, the hole on the passenger side of my car from when I installed the Lucas stuff is 3” aft of the hood opening and 4 ½” to the right f the car’s center line (right in the middle of my passenger-side white stripe).
Remember: the motors are independent, and cannot by synchronized. My feeling is: “who cares?” Nobody will ever see them working while you’re sitting still, ‘cause they’ll be beautifully parked. The only person who will ever see them operating is you and your passenger when you’re driving and it’s pouring, and all you’ll care about is whether they work perfectly, and they will. Just adjust the travel of both arms to avoid hitting if they should run out of sequence. My plan if I ever install a passenger wiper is to have the wipers meet in the center of the windshield vertically when operating, and park each arm pointing outboard. Or try something else if that doesn’t work right. I really don’t think I’ll put in a passenger wiper: nobody rides with me much anyway, and hardly ever when it’s raining, and I can see fantastic for all driving purposes with only the driver wiper operating.

 

 

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